I'm repairing a few runs in the clear that was shot a week ago. I block the run flat with 800 then continue with 1000, 1500, and 2000. At that point I get out the buffer to bring back the gloss, except the gloss isn't coming back. It gets a little shiny but you can always tell where it was sanded.

Then I tried sanding a couple small dust nibs with 2000. Even on areas sanded with just 2000 my buffer wasn't bringing the gloss back.

Is there a chance the clear is still too soft for run repair? I used Diamont clear with a slow activator.

Also, is there an intermediate step between sanding w/2000 and buffing? For example, should I be compounding before I try to buff?

And finally, do I buff dry, wet, or with some other type of compound? I've been using the buffer dry, light pressure, medium speed.

Thanks in advance.

Curt

I'm not sure what you mean when you say you are buffing. What exactly are you using?

After sanding you need to go to an aggressive cutting compound on a twisted wool pad. Never add water, just use the compound as-is out of the bottle.

Often you can end after this step but if you are going for a perfect finish, move to a 'final cut' compound on either a less aggressive twisted wool pad or a foam waffle pad.

I'm not going for a perfect finish, Chris. I'm just trying to bring the gloss back to the point it was at before I sanded the run.

I have a Makita 9227C buffer. 2 pads came with it. A white twisted wool (I think) and a yellow fluffier one. I don't know what material it is made of. When I say I'm "buffing" I'm using the yellow one dry with no compound.

I've been doing a lot of reading on this and it is very confusing. There are a lot of terms being thrown around like "cut", "buff", "compound", "polish" that seem to mean different things to different people. So I'm just trying to get the terms straight.

So what you are saying is that after leveling the run with 2000 I should be using a cutting compound on the wool pad? Buffing is not necessary unless I want extra gloss?

Thanks again.

Raindem wrote: I'm using the yellow one dry with no compound

Er, you need some compound, mate. Bit like brushing your teeth without toothpaste or water - kinda works, but not real good.

The grit in the compound provides the cutting action to take out the scratches and as you keep going it wears down and becomes finer, improving the gloss.

Got it. Thanks.

So what is the difference between "cut" and "buff"? The coarseness of the compound?

All of these terms mean "abrading the surface".

Cut = sanding, usually wet sanding paper either by hand or with a water D/A tool.

Buff = using a rotating pad (usually wool) with a semi-liquid compound, coarse through fine grits.

Polish = using a rotating pad (usually foam) with the finest grit semi-liquid compound.

Thanks Chris. No wonder I was confused. Sometimes too much information can be a bad thing.

I used some Meguir's "heavy cut cleaner" on the wool pad that came with the Makita and sure enough the shine came right back almost instantly. Now back to work.