I just recently did a 40 by 24 garage for my boss with 6 outlets and a seperate for a rhino lining system. Every single outlet had a 6 inch extension at the bottom with a drain. I can draw it out and send it to you later. Better yet search around the forums there should be some more info and pics.

Novices really need to do their research on how a professional sets up a shop. Here is your piping diagram: A water separator on a compressor is useless. http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.ns ... ing+Layout All one has to do is look at the layout and modify it to fit a shop. Piece of cake.

Sounds harsh, but fall short and you get what you deserve. Anybody I know in this business has dealt their own hand in regard to income loss.

Some runs can be removed using multiple methods. One of which is the glazing putty technique. Look it up. If severe runs are on a high crown, a newbie is destined for a repaint. If they are severe and on a flat surface and it is a $75K resto or collision job that justifies perfection, then expect a reshoot if you screw it up. After buffing, your run/sag should be undetectable.
Contamination? I worked for a shop over twenty years ago and the owner's son liked to detail cars outside against our warnings. He ruined a job one day and we threw his detailing supplies in the dumpster down the street. He never detailed a car in that lot again.
Even a one man shop shooting daily, using a lowly QC3 after a 50 foot run won't find any grief if procedures are properly followed. Fisheyes normal at home? Sure, if your prep and system sucks.

Thanks for your reply,

I don't really have a "system", I believe my prep is good but system is non existant.

I am very much a novice, being this will be the second car I have painted.

The diagram is a little confusing on how I would setup my shed for spray painting, I am not a professional, I may do a odd project here and there but would be very seldom at least.

What would be a basic but adequate setup?

I have to agree somewhat with the previous post. You should look into the ton of info on here before you tackle a job, but you live and learn so let's fix it now. Have to see your shop or shed to figure out how to run it. You can use a air line to make your 25 foot run if you had to or 50 foot run. Even if you take the airline and just drap it around the whole shed then hook your water separator to it then another line to spray from it. The key is to have the run for the air to cool properly and seperate the moisture properly.

Bit of a update on my project - I started sanding the bonnet down with 1500 on my DA and finished it with 2000.

Majority of the fish eyes and defects have been removed, so i think thats a win for me.

That said, now I need to look at getting some decent compounds,

Can anybody recommend some?

I reading alot about Meguiars M105, but there is some 3M stuff out there too.

I am using a DA for sanding and have a rotary for polishing, but might just use the DA for the lot to avoid swirls.

Anybody in Aus - know any places to buy some compound and proper pads? Pref in Victoria

I have not used the 3m only because the only place in town that has it available has it marked almost twice the online price so I didn't even look into their products.

I have looked into meguiars. Seems like they are one of the better compounds amount with others.
The m105 is to be used with the m205 polish.
Some people I talked too also recommend the m100 instead of the m105.
I haven't used it because I've been using their ultimate compound.
But from what I've read and pics I've seen the m105/205 is a god combo to use and best to use on a DA polisher.