Easier to cut and buff right after paint or way after?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.
How soon do you cut and buff?

The very next day.
6
40%
1 week after.
8
53%
2 weeks after.
1
7%
2-3 months after.
0
No votes
 
Total votes : 15


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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 11:40 pm
I cut and reclear most of my jobs so I don't have to polish much. I hate polishing lol

When cutting clear with 800 and reclearing you are better off with two tack coats and then a nice wet third. The tack coats will help do to the surface being slick the clear likes to flow.

As far as how long it takes me to cut to 5000 only a few minutes really after reclear.
Denib with 2000 wet and I use 3M trizact 3000 on a orbital with a water spray bottle over the entire panel to blend in where I denibbed and to hide any signs of denibbing. Then go to 5000 trizact same water. Also after compounding I wash the hell out of it because compound has fillers in it to hide scratches "that's why scratches come back a few weeks after a paint job" wash good between every step this will help make sure you're truly getting your wet sand scratches out and not filling them. Hope that helps
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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 12:22 am
Yea it was cold a few weeks ago, now the temp is warming up. The clear just sits on a shelf and the clear i shot was room temp or maybe warmer. Definately not too cold.

Okay, i thought you were sanding the whole car finishing with 3000 so i was wondering how long it would take if going up that high, but you just do it to de nib.

Same here, i hate cutting/buffing. Only ever do it if its part of the job.

Have you ever used the euro clear i mentioned?
I was told it was a rubberseal clear.

Seems like sanding with 800, remasking and reclearing takes just as long as cutting/buffing...?
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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 9:44 am
I haven't used that clear. I don't know what rubber seal clear is ?
Clear is plastic. Some could have chemestry of a rubbery compound. Is this the ureo clear you spoke of ?

I have got pretty fast at cutting and reclearing. I do it because it's adds a little extra clear and UV protection for the car. The very slight orange peel left after reclearing is enough to help hide every day wear on a paint job but smooth enough to think it was polished. For me it woks great because very little people take care of the paint properly and a completely flat cut and polished clear is a lot more work to keep nice than most people are willing to do so in the it usually benefits both me and the customer to do it this way.

Me... Because I don't get that guy complaining about all his scratches in it from something like dirty wash rags or dry towels.

Customer... Because they get a show like quality paint job that hides all his mistakes for years.

Does that make any sense to you lol ?
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 3:24 am
Yea that makes a lot more sense to me as to why you cut and reclear. I will have to try that and see how it works for me.

Yea that is the euro clear I mentioned.
The only good thing about this clear was the cutting part. Was able to knock down the orange peel in no time with 1500grit and buffed real easy. (2 day dry time)
Having mixed feelings about it despite it sanding/buffing so easily.
Have to get a little to close for comfort to the panel to get it nice and pretty flat.
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:27 am
one thing to consider about cutting and buffing. every clear has a different solids content and a required mil thickness. so if you sand half of that off by cutting and buffing you have took away all the strength of your clear and it will likely fail. but if you cut and reclear then lightly cut and buff you will have your proper mil thickness. "maybe a little more"
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