Serf27 wrote:Thanks for the info bowtie, lookslike ill be using a hard block from now on.

Im really going to aim to having now runs though, save the headache!
I think i am going to be cutting and buffing within 2-3 days now of paining.

Hey, what do you or other members suggest on doing when first coat of clear gets a run?
I know my base i can Let it dry for 20-30min then sand it out and re spray the area.
But the clear takes so much longer to dry, should i let the panel dry and sand the run the following day and re clear the panel?
This is for future references.

Everybody has a method that works best for them that comes with experience when laying clear. I like to spray my first coat of clear as tack Coat, followed by a medium wet Coat then a 3rd wet Coat.

If you get a run on your first coat, most of the time you can burry it if it's not a big run. Personally I'd just keep clearing and color sand the run out when you're done.

As R/T said, try upping your air pressure and adjusting your fluid control to try to get rid of some orange peel. It looks like the clear is almost going on to dry. If you're having problems with runs, upping the air pressure can help with that as well. I spray my clear at 45-50 psi at the regulator on a HVLP. How far are away are you spraying?

Next time you spray, try upping your pressure and move a bit closer to the surface while moving faster and always making sure you have 50% overlap. I'm thinking that a lot of your issues could be remedied when your spraying and save you some headaches in the finishing. This is just my opinion, hopefully we can help you figure out any issues.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Another trick is to put masking tape over the run and using a hard block to sand the run through the tape. The raised area will sand away to the level of the tape. Then you remove the tape and carefully concentrate on just the run.
Also, you still seem to be getting quite a bit of orange peel. Try upping the pressure on your spray gun or turning your fluid knob in another 1/2 turn.

Ahh just like putting bondo over the run!
I thought of this the other day with tape but wasn't sure if anyone had used it.
I'll definitely try that first next time! Thank you.

And yes, the battle with between orange peel and I continues and I can't seem to defeat it for the most part.
What pressure do you spray at?
I'll adjust my fluid needle inwards also so I'm not dumping clear on it. Going to give it a try Saturday. Thanks.

BlackBowtie wrote:
Everybody has a method that works best for them that comes with experience when laying clear. I like to spray my first coat of clear as tack Coat, followed by a medium wet Coat then a 3rd wet Coat.

If you get a run on your first coat, most of the time you can burry it if it's not a big run. Personally I'd just keep clearing and color sand the run out when you're done.

As R/T said, try upping your air pressure and adjusting your fluid control to try to get rid of some orange peel. It looks like the clear is almost going on to dry. If you're having problems with runs, upping the air pressure can help with that as well. I spray my clear at 45-50 psi at the regulator on a HVLP. How far are away are you spraying?

Next time you spray, try upping your pressure and move a bit closer to the surface while moving faster and always making sure you have 50% overlap. I'm thinking that a lot of your issues could be remedied when your spraying and save you some headaches in the finishing. This is just my opinion, hopefully we can help you figure out any issues.

I also used to do a light tack coat for clear but only to avoid fish eyes. The other day it hit me, once the base coat is on nice and flat there's no reason for me to tack coat it cuz there won't be fish eyes, I was just wasting material. So now my first coat is a light wet coat of clear.

so basically the run will just keep building up but once I cut and polish the run will be gone no mater what coat it appears in?

I spray at about 30psi and about 6" because that's what I've read online. But wow 45psi! And you get good results. I'm going to try that Saturday also, how far away do you spray?
Yes most of my issues are coming from me spraying. Mostly my psi and distance.
Not that they all come out bad. I get some work done with no runs and a nice finish but still with orange peel.
I'm going to do 40psi at 6" away and 50%-60% over lap.

I've found my best results come from when I'm closer to the panel and moving slower.

How far away do you guys spray?

Thanks for the help bowtie!

Can't wait to spray Saturday. I'll be posting pictures in a progress thread I have up.

I was hoping more of the regulars would respond as to whether or not one should wait a full week before cut n buffing?

Dreww wrote:I was hoping more of the regulars would respond as to whether or not one should wait a full week before cut n buffing?

By the poll numbers. Looks like waiting a week is the way to go.

also depends on the clear I`m using, 2021 from ppg that stuff gets harder than wood pecker lips, so I cut it next day

Serf27 wrote:I also used to do a light tack coat for clear but only to avoid fish eyes. The other day it hit me, once the base coat is on nice and flat there's no reason for me to tack coat it cuz there won't be fish eyes, I was just wasting material. So now my first coat is a light wet coat of clear.

so basically the run will just keep building up but once I cut and polish the run will be gone no mater what coat it appears in?

I spray at about 30psi and about 6" because that's what I've read online. But wow 45psi! And you get good results. I'm going to try that Saturday also, how far away do you spray?
Yes most of my issues are coming from me spraying. Mostly my psi and distance.
Not that they all come out bad. I get some work done with no runs and a nice finish but still with orange peel.
I'm going to do 40psi at 6" away and 50%-60% over lap.

I've found my best results come from when I'm closer to the panel and moving slower.

How far away do you guys spray?

Thanks for the help bowtie!

Can't wait to spray Saturday. I'll be posting pictures in a progress thread I have up.

Did you spray some more clear today with a different techniqu? Also, what kind of clear do you use? Some clears have a learning curve to learn how to lay them down properly?

The tack Coat helps with runs, it gives the next wet coat of clear something to "melt" into. I seldom get a run, and I mostly do completes.

Anyway, to answer your question. Generally I spray 6-7" away from.the surface, fine tune this by watching your fan hit the surface and watching reflections. If it looks like its going on dry move a bit closer or slow down.

To give you an idea, heres a tailgate that i sprayed for my personal truck today, this is PPG DBC base coat with PPG Clear W/ fast hardner and reduced 5% RTS. It was sprayed at 50 psi (at the regulator, HVLP Gun), fan half turn from wide open, fluid control wide open. This picture was taken immediately after spraying, and it flowed after taking this picture.

Thanks again for the info and reply Bow tie.
And that finish looks great!!
I dream of a finish like that lol.
No, today I did not spray, was a day full of pulling a dent out and bondo dust.
Tomorrow though,(or today actually since its 12am now) I will be spraying a black base on a truck followed by clear.
I will check the brand of clear when I spray it. I never reduce my clear though.

And the tack coat for the clear coat makes more sense for the reason you did it than the reason I did it. I'll do a light Tack coat of clear.
I'll set my fan fully open them close it half a turn as well and try the gun at 40 psi then 50psi.

Man with a finish like yours cutting and buffing must be a breeze with little to no orange peel.
Basically with each coat after the tack coat the surface should be shiny showing a reflection right.

Yes, the surface should shine with each Coat of clear. When you're spraying clear, basically what you see is what you get. The clear will flow to an extent, but don't expect dry spots to flow out. You want the entire surface on the panel to be wet when you're spraying it. Keep watching your reflections behind your fan, ensuring that it's wet and smooth just take caution not to dump it on to heavy to give yourself runs! Good luck today spraying, hope that we can help you get some better results and save you some time!

That poll depends on numerous factors and can be misleading to many novices on here.
As far as PSI, higher pressures work with HVLP but 50 with an RP is too high. Every painter shoots differently even using the same gun. Some like close(4-5") and fast, and all wet coats, no tack coat. I don't shoot tack coats and I'm not alone. Whatever works for each, as long as the outcome is good. If a clear calls for a minimum mil thickness on the TDS using wet coats, a tack coat is a waste of T&M or it will reduce the recommended mil thickness. Full wet coats as shown on a TDS will not lead to runs if shot properly.