Time frame for cut and buff?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 7:45 pm
Is there a time frame for cutting and buffing the clear coat? Is it okay to wait a month, two, or more before doing it? I'd like to get all parts painted then put back on the car before doing the polishing..(Wife wants her garage back!)

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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 9:51 pm
Just depends on the clear, well, and how much extra you might need to work.... Last Nano clear I shot you had to have the but and buff pretty much done within 8 hours or you were done. ********** universal clear, on the other hand, I've re-cut and buffed even past a year or so and it was still decent to work with..... What clear are you using????
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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 12:06 am
Nason SelectClear 498-00. I am an idiot. I had rotated the tip 90 degrees so I could shoot the underside of the bumper then forgot to turn it back when I started on the top of the quarter panel. Ran a bit before I caught myself. So much to think about while doing this..

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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 7:39 am
Stuff happens, their is indeed a lot to remember as you do the real shoot on the car. As to your clear, I'm not a Nason guy so I can't comment on how that clear ages/cures. Just looking at the p. sheet they are saying it is okay to cut and buff the day after the shoot if air dried. Personally I don't think I would be waiting a month or two. I'd at least try to get the sanding part done in more like a week or two and buffing done not to long after..... Remember, this is all about the coating cross linking for final durability. Cutting and buffing is about shaping your coating while it is still in a somewhat plastic state. Hopefully, other Nason users can chime in here with their experience....
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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 1:15 pm
DarrelK gave you some excellent info. I have used the Nasons and your much better off getting on it soon, a day or two. the longer you wait the harder it is to buff. don't beat your self up over rotating the tip I've done it more than one time.
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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 9:53 am
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Thanks guys! I think I will knock down the runs right away and buff as soon as I can get to it. Once I go it out of the garage and into the sun yesterday I was very pleased for a first time paint job. Few dust specks here and there but they look to be right on top. It flowed great in most places with very little OP. However I noticed an area on the right quarter panel, just below my big run where I may have gotten spooked that looks like a bit of dry spray.

I only did two coats of clear so I'm scared to sand that textured dry spray. Suggestions?

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 11:06 am
I don't think 2 coats are enough on that car. Sanding your clear can easily remove 1 full coat and that could be a lot worse if it is has much peel to it. Dial in how curvy those cars are and I'm betting you may not have even those 2 coats where the body work tucks here and there. Might want to consider a light sand/leveling at this point and adding more clear.
This is one of those things that's kind of hard to call since I'm not standing there looking/running my hands over things.... I know what I can get by with on the cut/buff when I've shot something.....
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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 1:32 pm
Dang! The tech sheet said two coats so that's what I did. Don't know much about solvent pop but was worried about that. I think I read somewhere if you put too many coats on you get that.

What would you suggest I sand it with level things out? 1000? Sand it until it's even opaque, right? Is there a window in which I would have to shoot more clear on it? And you can shoot clear right over that opaque sanded surface and it will clear up?

I had to tear half my paint booth apart to get the car out of the garage. (What a pain) It's all back together now so I think I'll go ahead and paint the doors. fenders, and hood, put all that stuff back on, tape everything up and spray the body again with clear. Two more coats you think after it's sanded?

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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 3:22 pm
At 1000 I don't think that's much grip. I'd probably wet sand at at 600/800. Yes, get everything flattened nice and evenly dull and shoot it. You shouldn't be dealing with any time window issues at this point..... And yes, at least 1 more fully wet coat, maybe 2 if you think your coats are on the thinnish side.
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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 3:35 pm
You know, I went back and had to look at that product sheet again....you are correct they are saying 2 coats near the top of that sheet but when you read near the bottom it is saying 2 coats= 2 dry mils of clear. Man, I was always told that it's pretty easy to shave off 1 full mil of coating with the cut and buff so if that were the case here you'd have only 1 mil of clear film protection on there.... I mean I know these newer clears are supposed to be performing better at less thickness but jeez..... 1 mil is nothing, hell, a heavy duty garbage bag is 3 mils..... :shock:
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