This is her before any sanding...
800 to start cutting? Opinions..
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Settled In
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2016 7:13 pm Country: USA |
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Settled In
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2016 7:13 pm Country: USA |
Just need to hit the front bumper and hood with the fine polish but the rest is done. What a shine! I'm very pleased..
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Blew your pic. up....nice, very nice.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Settled In
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2016 7:13 pm Country: USA |
Yeah, I love the reflection of the tree on the door and the drop light on the roof. Mirror like!
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Settled In
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Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:50 am Country: USA |
I agree the finish looks great! I am finally done painting BC/CC and ready to cut and buff. I see you used 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 before buffing (that is after getting over the run in the door).
My question is do you need all of those grits? I was thinking about just using 1500 then buff? I think the CC surface is pretty flat with some nibs. I don't want to shortcut now so really appreciate advise. My car is very curvy and I have been wet sanding by hand (no block) in the drive with a hose to keep things lubricated. I am guessing not using a block is a sin?? |
Nothing is written in rock when it comes to cutting and buffing. When I blow up your pictures and look at the light reflection edges I see a tattered, mottled reflections. This means you've still got plenty of texture to get knocked down. I'd be thinking 800 to 1000 with a harder rubber block backer to start. Could you stop after the 1500, well, yes you can if you are prepared to do more work in the buffing stages. Going on up through those higher grits will generally help the novice with making sure all scratches are gone. You can easily end up with "halos" when you skip those finer grits.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Settled In
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Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:50 am Country: USA |
After I got a decent (for me) base down I put on 4 coats of clear so that I would have something to work with. Because of earlier mistakes on the base I sanded it all back off with 400 to 600 grit wet sand on too many occasions.
So I know how 400 to 600 feels when wet, I am gathering you want to go very light with even a 1000 on the clear coat and check progress very often? I hear you about the other grits and yield to the experience... I had been wet sanding by keeping a hose flowing constantly and flooding the paper. Is it the same for 1000 or higher, or just spray bottle wet? |
Okay, got it....so with wet sanding, here is what I do. I use a two bucket system. I put warm water in bucket number one with a good dollip of Dawn in the mix. That is what I dip my paper in to do the wet sanding. I use bucket number two with just room temp. clear water that is my rinse for my paper now and then. Yes, feeling, looking as you go is best. Clear should flat out completely with no orange peel.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Settled In
Posts: 44
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2016 7:13 pm Country: USA |
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Looks great.... yeah body fit and finish can be a real bear especially hoods like yours..... just slow down and tape critical edges for protection if you need to....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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