Painting a hood and fender first time

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



No Turning Back
Posts: 855
Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:09 pm
Location: pa
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 12:38 am
I went to Auto body in high school vo tech for 2 years. I did alot of welding and some fillers and smc repair. I have the knowledge of paint and spray guns what they mean and do. I am just lil unsure cause of the lack of hands on i dont have cause of thats how the teacher taught his class. Alot of theory little next to nothing hands on. I mean we were lucky if we got to spray paint something an inch or even hold a spray gun lol. So i am curious now 5 years later im good at welding and have my certs from another school. I have a job someone wants me to do. The parts are from a 90's model T - Bird. The parts are salvage parts. The hood has scratches all over in the paint and is green in color, and it needs to be sprayed black. I know they have a value shade system i learned about on my own working at a body shop overhearing it. Is this needed to get job done niceley or will i need to spray more base coat to get coverage? So ill have to D-A it with 220 to get clear off and feather edge the hole hood out. I plan on using U pole spray can filler and letting it dry a day. Then sanding it 220. Do i need a sealer? Im not familiar with sealers i would just go with primer sealer that is lacquer based. Can someone lead me to the right direction?

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 6683
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 8:20 am
I'm okay with the canned primers for spot work but doing whole panels with them is just not giving you much in the way of build as compared to shooting from a gun. As for the way most guys are doing the finish package around here and on this forum it usually goes, epoxy primer, 2k surfacer, epoxy sealer, basecoat, and finally clearcoat. There are some variations on that as new direct to metal hybrid all-in-one sealer/surfacer are now available thus making just one process before you move into color basecoat and clear. Do yourself a favor and read the "Basics" article here at this web site and go through a lot of the posts in the "Paint and Body" section of this site. It sounds to me like you may need to read a little more about finish schedules before you do your hands on work. i hope this is helpful.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



No Turning Back
Posts: 855
Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:09 pm
Location: pa
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 1:16 pm
I read all the Body and Paint Articles. I left my information for the free basics to go to my email and im not getting it in my email tho. My old shop teacher knew alot about his trade and likes the old way of doing things. I am just trying to catch up on the newest ways that work of the industry. Im not sure what the meaning of 2 k is? Do you sand surfacers? Is that the same as high buid primer? So far i bought primer sealer from shirwin wiliams and reduced it for a primer and got 1 quart out of one pint, which was nice and was a commercial primer.



Site Admin
Posts: 375
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 3:02 am
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 11:20 pm
Go to http://www.autobody101.com/downloadhere.php and enter your email. You will be able to download it right away.

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 6683
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 11:35 pm
Didn't mean to leave you hanging, just got back here. Hopefully you can get that Basics downloaded. A 2k surfacer is like a liquid polyurethane or in some cases polyester "sprayable bondo." It can be built up to 1/8 inch thickness or so and is used to really "cherry out" and level your surfaces by block sanding and yes, it can be referred to as a high build primer in some cases. I can't comment on Sherwin Williams equivelant line of products because not too many of us use them around here. We use mostly PPG and Omni. If you can just read the Basics it will help you a lot.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



No Turning Back
Posts: 855
Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 3:09 pm
Location: pa
PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2005 3:48 pm
The rotisserie plans look great. looking foreward on making one my self with the HTP 200 mig.

Return to Cut, Buff, Polish & Detail

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 75 guests