Newbie Question #1
14 posts
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No, problem. I hang around this forum to try to give back to guys what I got from the seasoned pros like Reckon, Antique, and many others. You just see so many new shooters here that it seems like you have give them some "guidelines" or they get totally lost in their paint jobs especially on cutting and buffing. Cutting and buffing coatings seems like it is some Voodoo/Science/Art kind of thing when you try to talk about in a forum like this. Oh, well, experience is still the best teacher.
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Darrel for the most part has covered it.
I think the majority of people burn through on the edges and such.!!!!!! Think the biggest reason for breaking through is edges where the paint is thin. That happens even with people that have been doing this for a while or even with the so-called best paint products. Again I think most new people cut and buff through on those edges or when trying to remove a defect other then normal tight peel. For anyone wondering look at this ONLINE Video from R-M to see a "wet film thickness gage" example. Look for this wording then click on the video link: "Testing Wet Film VP126 Use a wet mil gage to determine the amount of paint film that has been applied to the surface. The ..." http://www.superiorpaints.com/rmtech/videos.htm This is what I recently acquired to replace an older mil gage of about the same type: The goal behind color sanding. http://www.i-car.com/pdf/program_suppor ... rapr99.pdf Think of color sanding as the same wording where some people will reference "ALL FILLERS" as "BONDO." Obviously there is only one brand name of Bondo but several named fillers will be referenced to by it. "FILLER" is a better term then "bondo" just as "Finish Sanding" is a better term VS "color sanding." The goal behind color sanding it to level and flatten the surface. So in a way it is similiar to primer sanding. The difference is you are sanding the top coat - color sanding to polish it to the best surface possible. Compounds are actually liquid abrasives. With primers and such have to leave a tooth for the additional top coats to adhere. Different people will use different terms and it causes confusion from time to time. Different people also use different methods to arrive at the same basic end goal. |
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when laying down primers do we have to sand the primer or is it better rough so it can adhere to the top color coat?
Also do we sand out top color base coat before aplying the clear coat? thanks for the help jay |
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Yes sand the primer with like a 600 or so. Do not sand the color unless it is to remove dirt nibs ect. Or unless you are going to recoat with more color.
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14 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
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