Trick?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2005 7:35 pm
Ok i know this might sound dumb but is there any trick to buffing without slinging it 5 miles either way? And what is the best pads to use i have read the links, like where the guy buffs the red dodge but i still cant get it. I am using 3M perfect-it-lll compound, and 3M michrofiber polsih. What are the best steps for this? I tried it out on a fender but i am painting it panel by panel and it doesnt have the doors on it. So i sanding a little bit and buffed but there is still a place or two that is dull will that be alright to leave like that for a couple days then buff? Thanks for any help.



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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2005 7:55 pm
Yeah dont put much on panel. Put some on panel then take polish machine rub it in with out turning it on till it dont look like a lake no more. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions



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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2005 8:06 pm
Oh yeah if you just painted base clear, i dunno if you know or was told wait couple days b4 you touch surface. You should use fine grit compound. It works better if you wet sand clear then use polish.

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2005 8:09 pm
Yeah that is pretty much what i have been doing i guess i have just been mainly scared to run the machine on the panel dry so i am putting to much on. I will say something that has been working really well if anyone is interested. I am sure this is already known but i do some window tinting and there is a tinting kit you can buy from wal-mart or equivelent that comes with like a big wedge looking chunk of rubber it is a squegee. And i have been using it to squegee of the panel while i was sanding you can easily tell instantly if you still have orangre peel or not. Just thought i would share sure u guys already know but... Anyway thanks for the info.

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2005 10:31 pm
Mo, just take your time, cutting and buffing clear coats is just one of those "acquired skills" just about like everything else you do with paint and body work. You get a feel for how much compound to put on and when it's time to put more on. Yes, you will still end up slinging crap, I'd be more worried if you weren't. I was just lucky to be cutting and buffing furniture coatings for a living so cars were easy for me since the coatings are tougher. If you're really scared about burning through the coating let it harden up for a few more days or even a week. Also make sure and tape your edges. Trust me if you're going to burn through that's the places it will happen.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2005 2:50 pm
Thank you very much that is what i wanted to know. I know you are supposed to tape off the edges but when you done with the rest of the vehicle what do u do with the edges. Do you sand them carefully or do you just let them go?

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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2005 3:37 pm
Depends on how much peel or texture you've got in relationship to the areas you've buffed. Sometimes I didn't have to do hardly anything. Other times I have indeed hand sanded, hand compounded, and hand buffed those area to blend them. Some guys use like a 3 inch mini- buff on an inline air drill (much lower r.p.m. than a die grinder).
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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