To anyone that can answer,

I have been wetsanding with 1500 and 2000 paper on Omni MTK finish. I was trying to sand out some texture along an edge and inadvertently sanded a wee to much. It's right on the edge (along the roofline where it meets up with the windshield. You can't really see it from standing back but it becomes obvious upon further inspection. So can I mix up some paint and airbrush that edge? There is no way that I want to redo the roof. Also on the hood, one of the hoodlines (not the edge) from buffing with Meguiars Diamond cut, blew through....it's faint..again can't see it from standing back but becomes obvious upon further inspection.

I'm thinkin of airbrushing these spots in.....tell me it'll work?


Also I have some areas that don't want to lay down flat.....they're flat but have an ity bity bit of texture to them....I went over the vehicle with 1500 3x and 2000 2x and have also used Diamond cut 2x....
should I go over these areas with 2000 again?

Thanks,
Ivan

Did you squegee it of as you were wetsanding? If so you should be able to see al; the little shiney spots. Then just keep sanding just till there all gone and it is completely dull looking.

If it was me, sure I would fix them with an airbrush but just a friendly warning, I do furniture touch-up for a living so what's easy to me may not be easy for you. I'm used to blending in repair damage on just about anything including metal, wood, marble, fiberglass, and anything that gets screwed up so I'm comfortable with the process. If you're not used to doing this make up some test panels and try to replicate the damaged areas like they are on your car and practice repairing them first. If you get good results and are happy with the blending go for it.

Yeah, I've been doing that.....I just don't want to sand too much away....guess I just keep going over it with 2000 paper.

MO-Cummins wrote:Did you squegee it of as you were wetsanding? If so you should be able to see al; the little shiney spots. Then just keep sanding just till there all gone and it is completely dull looking.

Yeah, guess it'll be a new skill I acquire....I've been trying to be extremely careful....we'll see how this comes out. Standing back from the car it's really starting to look good. It's just getting up close you start to see 'issues'.

DarrelK wrote:If it was me, sure I would fix them with an airbrush but just a friendly warning, I do furniture touch-up for a living so what's easy to me may not be easy for you. I'm used to blending in repair damage on just about anything including metal, wood, marble, fiberglass, and anything that gets screwed up so I'm comfortable with the process. If you're not used to doing this make up some test panels and try to replicate the damaged areas like they are on your car and practice repairing them first. If you get good results and are happy with the blending go for it.

how funny, i have the same dilemma and the same thought came to my mind today... to airbrush the mistake. as the others have mentioned, i too will practice first and then try and blend. after all, nothing to lose except repainting a whole panel

DarrelK: When blending how do you go about matching the surrounding areas on 2 stage paints?

I ask cuz the base will have a matte finish right?

Yes, you are correct. If I had to go back and base a lot it would of course be matte and I would airbrush more urethane clear over it. I would then have to cut and buff to blend my new urethane in with the surrounding clear. Sometimes though I can combine some base color with the urethane clear to slowly build in just enough color to get by and then add more clear over top. I think the hardest thing for me to learn about doing touch-up with auto urethanes is they are nothing like doing the touch-up work I do with furniture finishes. We still work in nitro, acrylic, and newer pre-cat lacquers with furniture where we get a good chemical burn with most of our repair work. When touching up already semi-hard or cured urethanes I have to make sure and rough up the area for good mechanical adheasion. And I'll also tell you I would rather touch-up wood any day of the week as compared to auto finishes. It's a hell of a lot easier!

Ok, The first time I laid down paint I put 3 coats (Omni MTK). I wetsanded (1500 and 2000 grit) until I finally had a dull look. In the process of doing this I had several areas that started to show through to the sealer. Airbrushing didn't pan out as I could not blend in the spots adequately. So I bit the bullet again wetsanded the entire car with 600 grit and laid down 3 more coats of color. I started the process of wetsanding again. The sides of the car came out fine after wetsanding, no sanding through, but the roof and hood were problematic as there were spots that would come out right and I kept wetsanding hoping they would dull out. Well, I blew through the color again in some areas. I getting a bit frustrated now.....I have to go buy more paint, should I attempt and lay down 4 or more coats before wetsanding? When I paint I am not getting massive orange peel, surprisingly, but it seems to take a lot of wetsanding to finally get the uniform dull appearance. Is it because I don't have enough coats of paint?

Any advice would be much appreciated. Even though it's Omni paint it still gets to be costly buying more paint (I'm using red, which they say costs more). Everyone now is telling me 'told you so, should've just taken in somewhere.' Now I'm ticked because I know I can this to come out right, I was so close this last go 'round except for the hood and roof.

Hood and roof, eh? The areas where your hand/arm/spray gun unit is at full extension, huh? If you are blowing through those areas I'm sure you just aren't getting enough clear coat on. It comes back to that same old issue of what constitues one clear coat? Throughout the years I taught myself to use a wet film guage so I knew what one wet film coat at the proper millage would be. Bottom line, if you're blowing through at 1500 grit you need more clear.