After finding this site and doing TONS of back reading, I took the dive and I painted my 69 a100 with a non metalic Valspar A.E. with NO clearcoat about a month ago and I'm starting to wetsand. I have some runs that I have sanded down and Im sure I'll have to touch them up as they are a slightly different color and I've cut through to the udercoat in spots.
My questions are I have some major orange peel, due to being a virgin at painting. It seems to cut down better/faster using a 1000 grit than with 1500, my arm got tired fast!!! Can I,
1. Go to 2000 after cuttin with 1000 or should I do a light sand w/1500? I really don't want to go through as I don't know how thick it is now. It looks pretty good after doing 1000. Trail and error maybe?
2. If I do cut through, do I need to rough up the area with 320 or 400 to lay on down more base, or just shoot it?
3. I know 3M stuuf is good, but what buffing compound should I use as there are sooo many to choose from? When I do buff, should I use a foam or wool pad?
4. After all is said and done, can I clearcoat it without adhesion problems or should I leave it alone? I have heard that with a clear on there that I would get good UV protection which would help in the hot California sun. Thank for all the previous intell as this is my first post.
NOTE: I just read Buffing questions so I guess you can disregard question #3. Thanks

I would like to know why you are using AE instead of bc/cc?? It is soo much of an easier system for new guys to use...... Let me in on your decision to use AE if you don't mind.

1.The problem you are going to run into with AE and color sanding is that you can change the color as you wet sand away the color itself and when you buff it back, you will have light and darker spots... More on what to do here in a minute

2. You are not using base, so you cant "rough up the area with 320 or 400 to lay on down more base".. You are using a single stage AE.. If you cut through with this stuff, you might as well spray the whole panel, as I don't see you blending this your first time out.

4. Here is the deal, if you are thinking of clearing the AE this is what I would do... If you have enough color left to fix the light and dark area's, I would convert the AE to base coat with a product called lazer dry made by Kirker... I think most manufactures make a similar product for their AE, if you cant find any in your line, I think the Kirker would work fine, but there are those here who oppose mixing lines... I have used said product with different AE manufactures without failures before, however it does not mean it could not happen... Now since I put up a disclaimer, on with what to do.. Sand the car with 400, lightly base the whole thing to get uniform color.. If you can get away with just fixing the light spots then fine...

Since it has been a month it will ready for urethane clear....Once it is all scuffed and fixed, apply three coats of clear.....That way you have enough to wet sand and buff out...

For future reference go with bc/cc system from now on and you will avoid many of the pitfalls of painting... Sorry for your problems, but this is all part of learning..

BK

BondoKing, why is anyone still fooling with the acrylic enamels? I was checking some old records of mine and found I switched to basecoat/clearcoat 15 years ago and never looked back. 69a100, it's not even that just the paint technology is just "old school" it's just that base/clear applications are so much easier to apply and correct not to mention their durability. Oh well, your deed is done, BondoKing has given you spot on advice as to how to handle it from here. The Kirker stuff isn't bad and will act as an extra layer of protection. Just make sure you've got your color fixed properly before you clear it.

Darrelk, it just blows me away when I hear someone new using AE?? OFten times the "guy behind the counter" tells them it is a good paint to start with.... Huh??? That is why I preach not to listen to the guy behind the counter...really...

I have also seen allot of post lately at hotrodders and some here regarding acid etch primer... Again that is old technology just as the AE and should really be left for the old timers who wont change...

For all you new guys here is what's current:

Base Coat - Urethane or conversion like Dupont or Sherman Williams/MS
Clear Coat - Urethane
Polyester primers- this is the way to go
Epoxy primers- Ditto on this
2k primers- still great product

Lastly before you go and spend you hard earned money, use the search engine and ask around if you cant find the answers... I really hate to see guys/girls spend their money they have saved up for a long time on the wrong stuff, only not to be able to afford to buy different products they need

BK

So should I just shoot what I've done already and leave it alone regardless of how it turns out or what?
Alright, so lets say I shot it with a bc/cc system and I have major orange peel on the base like I now have. Will the clear cover this and give me that smooth look to the base? Im sure after wetsanding the clear would make it look better. Whats the take on this? Thanks

there should not be an issue with spraying allot of texture in your base.. If the gun is set up properly, your base will lay down flat.. Then you clear over that.. Whatever texture you have in your base if it is allot with transfer through the clear... Allot not a little is what we are talking about... All paint is going to have texture of some degree, if you think it does not, then sand it and you will see all the little bumps...

I think you should do what I told you.. Convert the AE fix the area's that are lighter and clear the whole car.... At worst you may have to buy one more quart of base to get a uniform color.. Not really a big deal considering how little it cost and how bad your paint job could other wise look... If you dont convert the AE then you will need to wait about 30 days before you clear over it!!

BK

Bondoking-What are you trying to say with this? "Whatever texture you have in your base if it is allot with transfer through the clear... Allot not a little is what we are talking about... " You make no sense! You need to proofread before you post.

Lookie here!!! I was trying to help you. Sorry my wording was not exactly as you would like it..

Since I cannot meet your specifications... I make no sense???

I think what BK is trying to tell you is if you know which end of the spray gun the paint comes out of, orange peeling the base will not be an issue. You will probably have some orange peel after you shoot the clear, but you will be able to color sand and polish it with no problem compared to the mess it runs into with the AE single stage. I don't have near the experience these other guys do that are telling you to go to base/clear, but I will tell you that I have always used b/c even as a beginner and have never been disappointed with it's performance and also the finished paint job. This is just another person's opinion. Good luck!