Body Magic

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 6:09 pm
I was told by several knowledgeable people that buffing would not take orange peel out. On the evercoat web site for there Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound it states that it is designed to easily remove 1000-1500 sand scratches, heavy orange peel, scratches, wet sanding marks and topcoat imperfections. So my Question is does it actually do as stated. Thanks for all the help Dave

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 6:27 pm
Yeah, I think it'll do as stated, it'll remove heavy orange peel... and leave you with light orange peel. Could be theres such a difference in height between surface highs and lows that the pad will be cutting more off the top than the bottom and start to flatten it. HOwever when it turns into LIGHT or MODERATE orange peel the pad will just follow the contour of the surface and not remove it.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 10:43 pm
I don't think most people get it, Abe. You color sand (sand the clear coat) to get the coating flat (goodbye orange peel) period. You then compound and buff the coating back up to a mirror finish taking out any sand scratches you've made with the sandpapers. If you try to compound out heavy orange peel you are just skipping what the sandpaper should be doing and making the whole process a lot more frustrating. You are also pushing the buffer a lot harder than needed and just increasing the chances of some nasty swirl marks, or worse burning through your coating. Bottom line for me, sanding gets rid of orange peel, compounding and buffing bring my coating gloss back up 100%.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 1:36 am
The guys above are right. Block sand your clearcoat first. Make sure
you use a sanding block. Very important. Watch your cc closely as
you sand. When it is flat then stop. I use 1000 grit wet. It will now be
flat and dull. Now you buff it to a shine. I use Mequires polish and
cleaner. I think it is #M8332. I might be wrong about the # but it is
close. Gus

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