Orange Peel after buffing

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 8:45 am
I just finished buffing my clear coat and although the shine has come up quite nicely I notice that there is still quite a bit of orange peel or surface irregularity that I dd not notice after I had wet sanded the clear...Is this a common problem? Is it practical to think that I can sand out all of the irregularities?? I am concerned that I may sand through the clear if I try to get it perfect...I did have some runs/sags and I sanded them out before buffing..or at least I thought I did...when you look at the car under certain lighting conditions the areas are still noticeable...Any suggestions or recommendations??? I am even thinking of re- clearing the whole car but I am concerned that I will just end up with the same problems...
Dan
Daniel

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 1:39 pm
It soundsl like you did not get the clear flat the first time in fear that you would sand through... How many coats of clear did you put on, and what type of clear did you use..

As far as the runs and sags, sometimes they are really a PIA... The easiest method for runs is using a razor blade first, however since you have already sanded it to the point that you thought it was flat, then that wont do you any good this go around... Make sure you are using a block when sanding sags and runs, and block until there is not any ring or anything showing at all... Block the surrounding area well too as there may be sagging paint that you dont see unless at the right angle and you also want that area to flow out nicely...

How are you sanding the clear??? What kind of paper are u using??

BK
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If you want more, Dream more!!!!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 4:32 pm
Mrperdu, just 3 words when it comes to clear coat. You've got to get it sanded FLAT, FLAT, FLAT, before you even pick up compound and a buffer. It should be absolutely sanded level with no apparent gloss. Orange peel is gotten rid of by the function of sanding that clear. If the orange peel is still there compounding and buffing will only make it prettier not more level! For the newbies test panels are the best way to establish how your final clear is going to look on your car. Old fenders, hoods, refrigerator doors, etc. are best to learn with for any of the autobody process including compounding and buffing.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 7:24 pm
You are probably buffing too soon. Sand with 1000 grit first. Then
finish with 2000. Wet sand it. Dry it with a paper towel or rag. If it is
ALL dull, no shiney spots, then you buff. If you see shiney spots
then you have to sand more. If you fear going thru the clear then
the clear is too thin. And you learned another lessen. Put on more
clear next time. But I would not worry about going thru the clear now.
This is a chance for you to learn how to sand. For buffing with a
power buffer, I use Mequires #M8332. polish and cleaner. Then to be
safe I use the same stuff by hand to finish. Lots of luck. Gus



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 10:14 am
Thanks for the responses...I am using Glasurit Clear. It is mixed 2parts clear, 1 part hardener and 20% reducer. I am using 3M paper. I started with 1500 ( although I used 1000 where I had very visible orange peel and runs) and then I used 2000 grit just before buffing. I am calling the defects orange peel although I am not sure it is. When you view the car in certain lighting conditions it has a rippled look to it...When I originally wet sanded, it appeared to me that there was no gloss left and thus I thought that I had all of the orange peel out...perhaps I need better lighting next time...I was using halogen lights ( man do they get hot in the middle of summer!) Based upon comments received I think I will get out my spray bottle and bucket of water, some 1000 grit paper and a hard block and go at it again. I know I risk blowing through the clear, but at this point I don't have many other options. If I am lucky enough to get the defects out without sanding through then I will re-buff the car. If I blow through I guess I will have to re-clear the areas...Any other comments or suggestions would be much appreciated. By the way, this is a 73 corvette I painted in a solid red colour...I guess I was a bit unrealistic about my chances of doing it right the first time, but I guess nothing ventured nothing gained...
Dan
Daniel



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 11:13 am
A few guys on here pointed me in the direction of Meguiars sandpaper. If you can get your hands on some give it a try. It is made by Nikkens....if you locate that name it is the same thing. I was nearly finished sanding and didn't get to try it.......but I know I will on my next panel. I tried both 3M and Norton 1000 - 1500 - then 2000. Got it done but was quite a bit of work. The Meguiars/Nikkens costs more but supposedly worth the cost. Let us know how you make out...good luck!!!

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 7:59 pm
Bro if your clear was flat meaning no little bumps or rings etc when you were finished sanding and all you are seeing at an angle is waves, sounds to me like you have some wavy panels... You see this allot in cars that have been repainted... YOu can look down the door at an angle it looks like you could surf on it.... NOt that the panel is off, usually it is improper prep... did you use a da to scuff down your ride?? Anyways if it is wavy under the clear, sanding all day wont affect that.... I dont want to see you re sand and buff for nothing

BK
[Quote from Quincy Jones]

If you want more, Dream more!!!!



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 11:20 am
Thanks for the additional comments and suggestions...I will definitely look for the Maguire paper if I ever try this again...( I likely will because even with all of my problems I have really enjoyed this project!!). I believe I have a combination of some waviness in the panels and some orange peel. I have re-sanded one door, first with 1500 and then 2000. I then re-buffed the door and although most of the orange peel is gone, there is still some waviness to the door. Likely my fault since I primed the car and then tried my hand at blocking out the car. I think part of my problem is the lighting in my garage. I blocked the car to the point where it looked smooth as a baby"s ****..at least to my eye..and yet there is still some waviness. This was the same case when I wet sanded the clear the first time...it looked like I got all of the orange peel but I obviously didn't the first time. Oh well, live and learn. Armed with my mistakes, the benefit of experience and the great assistance from this forum maybe my next project will go a bit more smoothly... :oops:
Dan
Daniel



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:44 pm
I just painted a 73 corvette. There was not a flat spot on that car. Afer 32 years of the fiberglass expanding and contracting all the panels warp and get waves. I layed a skim coat of filler over the whole car black sanded it. then four coats of high build guide coating and block sanding between each coat to get it flat. If you were not guide coating when you were black sanding I gaurrentee that is the cause of the ripples you see!



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2005 12:07 am
mdperdu,

Hey, very important, if you respond again, let us know how many coats of clear you put on, also if you can, your gun and air-pressure you were spraying with to give us an accurate idea of how thick the clear is on there. It all depends on the above variables(and more), but, for example, if you sprayed more than 2 coats of clear, wet sanded JUST till the orange peel was gone, AND are still seeing sand scratches, you probably have a good amount of clear still on there(.ie).

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