Looking for opinions on the best and easiest sanding polyester (high build) primers. I have an extermely pitted body that needs a good overall filler, but have found some to REALLY gum up the sand paper.
Thanks in advance for the help
Best Sanding Polyester Primer
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dupont uro prime was my all time favorite,but they quit making it. i'm not sure what they replaced it with it was allso quite spendy. this could be interresting as i'm in the search for a good hi build good sanding primer myself.
they say my name is Jay
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Kirker makes a very good high fill 2K primer that sands easily and does not gum up the paper.
The UP-711 is mixed 4:1 with UPC-711 and at $73.00 a gallon plus shipping is a very good price. This stuff can be sanded within 2 hours @ 72 degrees temperature. We use this in the buff color and use grey lacquer primer over it for a guide coat. Their DTM Enduro Epoxy Primer is great epoxy primer and can used as a sealer if over reduced. You can get both products here: http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirker/primers.html Frank Cox Cox Custom Cars No better smell than fresh paint.
http://www.use.com/editset.pl?set=67406f07b7eb93a2633d http://www.coxcustomcarstx.com/ |
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FeatherFill G2 and Slicksand are the two most popular brands of polyester primer. Since it is basically "spray on filler" you should block sand it flat with 80 and follow with 180 - 220 and then shoot your 2k primer coats over that and do your finish sanding. 2k high build primers have a tendency to shrink so if you choose that route be sure to give ample time before finish sanding. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Coronet is right,,,Slicksand is some good stuff! I use it on big jobs. It fills and sands great! http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=28 Let me help you out with a little trick when it comes to 2K urethane primers. You should tint your first coat of primer when you mix it with a tint (Concentrated color of your choice) off of the mixing machine, or from your jobber. You can use regular non reduced color if you have to, but the tint works better. Mix your first coat of primer up,,add a little tint to it ,I think its up to 5-10%, Spray that on the car, then mix up enough "without tint" to spray two to three more coats on the car. That way you can see what you are doing when you block your surface. If you dont sand through your primer,,,you dont need to seal it. You save time and money........................................... ... Last edited by OldDupontGuy on Sun Feb 06, 2011 12:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6777
Joined: Tue May 19, 2009 7:10 pm Location: OREGON COAST |
good point odg, sorry i didn't read the o/p question correct.
they say my name is Jay
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"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"
Capt Rick Hiott. www.reelfishhead.com |
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Thanks for all of the input guys. I'm getting close to needing this. Working on a '36 dodge convertible That spent a lot of time outside in Oregon. You can imagine the condition of this thing.
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Ahh.... Badsix and I know all too well about working on pitted steel from Oregon weather.
After you get it back from media blasting (assuming), and replacing most of the lower half of the car.....Epoxy prime, 2-coats, followed by 3 coats of Evercoat Featherfill G2 or 5-Star/Transtar MaxxFill. The MaxxFill doesn't fill quite as much as Featherfill G2, but it sands a lot easier. If you have heavy pitting go with the G2, light pitting, MaxxFill is fine and will save your arms sanding. |
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