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Holes to weld shut...

More of an art than a science - discuss metalworking and welding here.



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 4:30 pm
Hello,

So I have a 1983 Scirocco project that i am prepping for paint. However, in the process of taking off the rubber side trim i found that it had been installed via rivets!

Image


These are relatively small holes, and they run along most of the side of the car. I wouldn't worry if i was installing the same trim after i painted the car, but i'm not. The more modern trim i am using is placed lower on the vehicle... Long story short: I need those holes gone.

Being an inexperienced body man, i've asked around my local sources for advice. Fiberglass or welding seem to be my main options, and since this is my prized possession, i have a bad feeling about using fiberglass. I really don't want to risk having a change of texture on the surface, not to mention the decrease in stability over time (relative to plain old steel). Plus, i've done a few metal shop classes in high school (not too long ago) and i have a spare fender to even practice on!

Unfortunately, i have only used TIG on thin metals, and all i have is MIG. In an attempt to search for any specialized tool to help me out i found this: http://www.eastwood.com/magnetic-hole-p ... welde.html

It looks useful, but i'm not sure how its used, or if it would even be useful for my situation at all...

Summary: I would like to know more about this tool, and or how to tackle my problem.

Note: these holes are accessible from both sides

Thanks

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 7:49 pm
RDS,,Tell us more about the MIG welder. Is it a 110 volt model or 220 volt?
This would be a very simple fix with a MIG if you can turn it down low enough. Mig welding is the easiest one as long as the metal is clean...................

Practice on your fender. (There is no need to make this post complicated with all kinds of technical welding information)
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"


Capt Rick Hiott.
www.reelfishhead.com



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 8:27 pm
My mig is a 110.

Sorry for the long post. I've been through a lot of grief keeping my posts short in the past so it's a habit of mine.


... So just go for it and start practicing on my fender? Nothing else needed except my welder and a good ground? In my experience a mig makes holes in metal that thin pretty easily.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 9:39 pm
Your post wasn't too long, I think Rick was saying there is no need to go into a long technical discussion on this -- you've got a relatively straightforward set of holes to fill there and like Rick said if you can turn the amperage down on the welder you are good to go.

Before I even looked at that tool I was going to tell you to get an old piece of copper pipe, bang the end of it flat and make yourself a copper backing-stopper for the weld -- that is exactly what that tool is. The mig weld will not adhere to the copper, that's the idea.

Practice on scrap first, just drill some holes the same size. If the holes are small enough you may not even need the copper tool.

-Chris



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:13 pm
If your shielding gas is set properly, there should be no problem with burn throughs using MIG at a low setting. The gas along with the copper help in dissapating the heat.
If you need both hands free, or can't reach around to hold the copper while you fill the hole, any magnet strong enough will hold the copper in place. HF has some cheap welding magnets that work fine for this. Another option, which I've done many times, is to duct tape the copper in place. Just make sure the copper is large enough to be able to keep the tape a few inches away from the hole.
Aluminum will work as well.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:48 pm
Mig is the right way to solve this problem and is really eazy to do i just did a 73 nova and removed all trim holes from it..... That being said I have known of some shoddy body men just smear mud over those holes sand down and prime in. I AM NOT SAYING THAT JUST SAYING I"VE SEEN IT ALOT. It kinda came along with the whole mass rust car dealer reapiar going on in the late 80's early 90's.
MissouriPaintSlinger

Do it right the first time.
Enjoy it for twice as long

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 3:48 am
,,"So just go for it and start practicing on my fender?"

Yes RDS, you dont need any other tools,,just play around with your settings until you get it right. Its VERY simple.
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"


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www.reelfishhead.com

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 3:49 pm
I use a copper coin,hold it on the back of the hole,or get a friend to hold it.....not with your fingers lol,with a screwdriver or something similar....and just fill the hole in with your mig.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 4:30 pm
Daz,,,with a hole this small your copper penny trick is not needed.

Its just a tiny hole guys,,It takes about a second to fix this.

Good GOD! There is no need to have 27 post on how to weld a 1/8" hole with a MIG welder..................... remember,,this is AutoBody101,,,not "Advanced Welding Technology".
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"


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www.reelfishhead.com

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 6:30 pm
The fact that the hole probably doesn't need backing was already stated, and not everyone knows about using copper so no harm done.

Who cares what the name of the site is...makes no difference to what we can and can't talk about here.
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