new paint not so good

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



Non-Lurker
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:03 pm

Country:
Australia
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:14 pm
i got sent to here from another forum and this is my first time posting and yes ive used the search feature to try find my anwser but i want to make sure on what im going to do is right before i do it
okay so my car just got resprayed and was ment to be gloss black, it got sprayed with arcrilic mixed with clear, but it came up rough and some parts are very patchy(no point putting pics up because pictures make it look way better then it is), from what ive read i need to wet sand the whole car with 2000 grit and then buff it, what are peoples opinions? is this a good method?i want it to come out nice and glossy with a glassy finish



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:08 pm
so its a single stage job right? any metallics in it at all?, how long has it been since it was painted? ready to buy the blocks, sandpaper, compounds, polishes, buffer?, masking tape?, etc?
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!



Non-Lurker
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:03 pm

Country:
Australia
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:21 am
nah no metalics its just ment to be gloss black arcrilic, and yeah im ready to buy stuff, today i brought some 1200 grit sandpaper and some septone mr buff buffing cream, so far im going to sand the paint with 1200, then hit it with 1800 then 2000 then buff it with a cheap orbital buffer thing i have with the septone buffing cream then mabey hit it with some swirl remover, does that sound good or is there anything else i need? the main thing im trying to do is get rid of dodgey overspray bits, fix up patchy bits and hopefully make it real glossy



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:37 am
orbital buffer won't work. you need a variable speed buffer. that can take wool, or foam pads. there not cheap. top companies are makita, dewalt, etc. i.e. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/makita ... 18852.aspx

one of those cheap ones. that have two handles on the side are ok for polishing or waxing, thats about it my friend.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!

User avatar

Top Contributor
Posts: 4264
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:43 pm
Location: Charleston,SC
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 6:50 am
There is also no reason to use three different grits of paper,,,,you doing extra work that doesn't need to be done....

I sand with 1200 and then buff.....
"The number of parasites in the USA has now eclipsed the number of productive members of society"


Capt Rick Hiott.
www.reelfishhead.com



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 11:22 am
yes with a buffer, not a cheap plastic polisher that you buy at autozone rick.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 5024
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:48 pm
luke23 wrote:nah no metalics its just ment to be gloss black arcrilic, and yeah im ready to buy stuff, today i brought some 1200 grit sandpaper and some septone mr buff buffing cream, so far im going to sand the paint with 1200, then hit it with 1800 then 2000 then buff it with a cheap orbital buffer thing i have with the septone buffing cream then mabey hit it with some swirl remover, does that sound good or is there anything else i need? the main thing im trying to do is get rid of dodgey overspray bits, fix up patchy bits and hopefully make it real glossy


1800-2000 are too close to benefit you much. I would suggest 1000-1500-2000.
I agree the Orbital style buffer is a waste of time and money and will not give you the desired results.
You might find a decent 7" rotary buffer at a Pawn Shop or be able to borrow one. Be sure to get the right backing plate and pads plus the right compounds. For stuff readily available through auto parts stores Meguiars 105 and 205 will get you a real nice shine.
1968 Coronet R/T - a work in progress.


ACTS 16:31



Non-Lurker
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:03 pm

Country:
Australia
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 8:29 pm
nah i didnt exactly waste money on the buffing thing ive had it for ages anyways it was a present, what if i just hand buff it?



* Banned *
Posts: 876
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:19 pm
Location: (account suspended)
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 10:32 pm
not gonna happen my friend. need a buffer.
Life is Short, Live your life and Do what You want to Do!



Fully Engaged
Posts: 446
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: Ballarat, Victoria, Australia
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 10:33 pm
Your obviously in Australia. Let me guess, you used Duco acrylic laquer ??

The last time I used that (about 6years ago) I ran into huge problems with apply it, as the day I was ready to paint was 34degrees in the shade :x I just could get it on wet enough. Anyway this is the probably the most forgiving paint ever made given you have used a flat colour. This is what worked for me .... first, don't worry about how sh!tful it looks for now. It'll be covered in overspray.

Image


This is what the horizontal surfaces looked like. I really struggled getting the metalic to lay down right given the heat too :(

Image


Image


You need to keep colour sanding until there is no "shiny dots" in it ... .See above .... No bloody good. Keep sanding, you'll have to wipe it down and check in the light when it's dry. If you cut corners here, it'll look really bad.

Image


You looking for a "flat" non scratchy finish. If you try to refinish it when it's scratchy looking, it'll look like this buffed in the sun (this was after buffing with a wool buff and harsh cutters).

Image


This is what your aiming for. A matt flat level surface without any scratching (at least this is what works for me). this was finished with blunt well used 1500grit. Let the paper soak over night, and yeah, use a dash of soap. If you get it nice and flat like above ... this is what it'll look like when you hit if with a rotary buffer.

Image


Image


The professionals on here will probably have a good laugh at me ... but hey, if it works for you ... Go for it!

Throw away any crap products you have purchased at Supercheap and head to a proper auto paint store. Get some decent harsh cutters, medium cutters, and some micro-fine cutters. They'll be expensive, but will likely last us DIY guys a decade. I've found any product with 3M written on it generally works as advertised. I like there micro-fine cutters.

seeya,
Shane L.
The nutty Citroen guy...
Next

Return to Cut, Buff, Polish & Detail

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests