Should you mix in hardener in your base coats or only the last few clear coats??
Thanks! Jeff
Hardener in base coat??
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Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2003 9:51 pm Location: Antelope Valley, CA |
When I do my base coat, I only mix a reducer. My clear is the only thing with a hardner in it. Usually the products you buy will tell you the companion product to use with it and the ratio.
Silly boys....Trucks R 4 Girls.
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Thanks for the feedback. The product I was using did not say anything about hardener so I was only going to mix it in the clear coats.
Thanks again! |
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When, using a 3 stage paint with the pearl coat being the 2nd can a retarder be used to elimainate the orange peel effect ? if so what can I,expect with the clear coat final or should retarder be used also?
Mistakes are an aquired art!
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Retarders are used when slower evaporation of the thinner is desired, such as in hot/humid weather. It won't help as far as orange peel because that lies within the gun (being adjusted correctly). Retarder just slows the drying time down just as a medium to hot temperture reducer would do.
Hope this helps . |
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Thanks for the re: that makes a lot of sence but brings me to my next question! this only happens to me in warm weather I,have tried adjusting the gun,but seem to get dry spray effect,it seems to happen more with Dimensions paint, base coat/mid /clear,only the top coat causes this problem any suggestions??
Mistakes are an aquired art!
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It could be a few things causing the dry spray.
(Big question)- How warm is it in the paint booth (temp)? Need to know what temp reducer are you using? Also, are you sure the gun is adjusted correctly (air pressure) with the right size tip for the paint? Alot of times you'll get dry spray with just having the lid vent hole (on top) being plugged-up a little. How much distance do you have between the panel and gun? Is the materials being mixed accordingly (ratios)?. If anything else, it may just be the gun (may sure you have the right size tip- usually 1.3mm-1.5mm), if you have the right size tip for the paint/mid/clear, try spraying with just water on a piece of cardboard with correct air pressure to the gun and check the atomization (droplets) its producing and adjust, if any. Remember, you must set the air pressure accordingly with the trigger fully pulled. Let us know the results. Hope this helps . |
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Thanks,you have just mentioned alot of things to aware of, the spec's are Distance 11 to 13 inches, 1.5mm tip,80-85 degees with medium reducer,50psi full pull on trigger, top feeder SHARP gun, have'nt payed much attention to plugged vents,maybe I,should,it seems to go from one extreme to the other orange peel to dryspray, it sometimes lays down glass like super gloss, that would give you a rise, then goes all to hell,on next panel on same mix! But I,am commited to solving this,thank God,this is my stuff,I,would fire Me! LOL
Mistakes are an aquired art!
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First off, from looking at your specs, distance for spraying should be 6 to 8 inches. The temp is pretty high, so I would change to a warm to high temp reducer and try on test panel. Might have to add a little more reducer to the mix to get it to flow correctly (because of temp). The vent hole on the cap lid should NEVER be glogged, if it does, you'll get dry spray. You have to make sure when cup is full that the vent hole doesn't get plugged. I always have a paper clip near by just in case.
I'm trying to steer you clear from the retarder because it will just delay the time it should take for paint to dry and allow dust and trash to stick to your fresh paint job. If all else fails, use the retarder. Hope this helps . |
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Thanks, you have been a great help! brought up some good points,good tip on the retarder too! looks like it is time to re-learn from the old single stage days,I'll post some pic's on what happens,this week to the 1968'VW. Thanks again Tricky,BillyBob.
Mistakes are an aquired art!
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