i have a 94 civic - and its got rust etc and paint is messed, so im gonna paint it my self. is this an ok quality paint "kirker" and its acrylic so would that go with the paint i have on my car now? is it a single stage? and to paint my car would i jsut scuff up the paint and not use primer and just lay the base or should i spray primer then base?
thanks
and would this kit be good or should i just buy things seperatley?
Start to Finish Kit includes :
3/4 Gal. of Urethane Color (45+ Colors Available)
1 Qt. of the Activator for the Color
1 Gal. of 2k High build Urethane Primer/Surfacer/ Chemical Sealer (buff or grey)
1 Qt. of the Activator for the Primer
1 Gal. of Miraclear II Clear Coat
1 Qt. Activator for the clear
2 Qts. Urethane reducer
15 each Paint sticks, & Paint Strainers
1 each Spray Suit, & Spray Sock
3 rolls of 1” Masking Tape
6 Tack rags
3 count 1qt mixing cups , for hassle free mixing
Instruction sheet for mixing all products
$180.00 Plus S&H
kirker paint
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Fully Engaged
Posts: 176
Joined: Tue May 29, 2007 12:15 pm Location: Central Florida |
I'd stay away from the paint.. but there's members on here that use their primer.
I painted a 1930 Ford Woody Wagon with the Kirker enamel and the paint was junk! I would go with Nason (DuPont) paint if you're looking to stay in a budget. Or PPG's Delstar and Dupont Centari are decent Acrylic Enamels that aren't very transparent and last a good while. |
There are many people that have used it and satisfied with it . I use there Epoxy but I have not used there paint YET. A lot has to do with the painter. Just because you buy the best paint there is is no gurantee that you will get a first class job.
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Fully Engaged
Posts: 176
Joined: Tue May 29, 2007 12:15 pm Location: Central Florida |
That brings up a good point! I've seen crappy paint jobs using high quality paint. I'll say this about Kirker.. I will not use it in my shop and no customer car will ever roll out the door with Kirker paint products on it. It's just that I've used Dupont & PPG products for so long I doubt I'd step down to Kirker. |
goat, if this is your first paint job, it doesn't make any sense to spend the high dollars on bigger name paint. You know what they say, "Your paint job is only as good as the preparation". Your first paint job will have plenty of flaws. Sorry to say, but it's the truth.
You'll have deep sand scratches showing, patches of orange peel and runs, low spots you missed in the bodywork stage, waves, etc... I'm not trying to bust you in the 'nads, but it's going to happen. I'd say go with the Kirker, and if the overall paint job doesn't meet your expectations, you can fix the mistakes and repaint with the high dollar paint. Think of the Kirker in this situation as primer. Last edited by CoolasIce on Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
There is no one right way to paint a car, but there are a whole lot of wrong ways
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Goat
Kirker products are a really good bang for the buck . If I had a shop I would only use high end products also . The shop can pass the higher cost on to the customer ,we guys at home can't. The only thing I would change is the Miraclear as it can be hard to spray . Kirker has a new line of clear out and I would go with one of those instead . Mooch |
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That Kirker Urethane (not enamel) is some of the toughest
paint I"ve ever used. You can't hardly scratch it off, really good stuff. I'd recommend a different clear but their urethane colors are great. Here's their bright orange. (98' civic) http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/ ... C03799.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/ ... C03426.jpg JC.
(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding) |
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I guess it's mostly the painter and not the paint. I've heard a lot of good and a lot of bad about Kirker products. I got a gallon of clear off ebay and it sprayed good for me. I just got a gallon of thier 2k high fill primer. I've never used it before, always used either Nason or Dupont. The down side of any 2k primer is the wait time to sand.
For years I've used Lacquer Primer. Spray it on, wait 15 to 30 minutes and sand it off. Plus it's cheap and you can mix it thick or thin. I've even brushed it on really thick. I was working a project that had a million little dimples in the body. Looked like it was in a hail storm with marble size hail. I brushed lacquer primer on it. Later that day, I started sanding. It filled all the dimples and came out really smooth. Wet sanded the car and shot Enamel on it. Looked great. Better than an Earl Schibe or Maaco. Can't do that with 2k primer. You just have to keep adding coat upon coat to get the filling properties. I've never tried Kirker paint though. I'm not much on experimenting. I really hate doing something twice. JCClarks Honda does look nice though. Looks like it went on really smooth. I've heard, but never witnessed, that Kirker paints are too transparent. That you really need to apply several coats to get it to cover. But anyway, I'll let everyone know how the Kirker 2K High Fill Primer works out. Frank No better smell than fresh paint.
http://www.use.com/editset.pl?set=67406f07b7eb93a2633d http://www.coxcustomcarstx.com/ |
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also had a few questions. i think im going to be diong panels seperatley. like the bumpers seperate the fenders , hood/ tailgate and then do the body...so my question was how much should i mix up to paint wat...i dont wanna mix it all up because that ruins the paint. so how much paint does it take to paint one bumper. how much paint does it take to paint the whole car? 3/4 of a gallon enough? and how many coats can i get out of it?
should i even bother spraying primer ? or can i just spray on a sealer over my factory paint/bodywork and then just paint it? also it says for primer "buff or grey" whats buff color? thanks for all the input =) |
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I replied in orange. |
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