So I bought a gallon of Phantom Grey Paint, it came with a pint of cat and some thinner. and im painting my 92 toyota pickup.
But my questions are according to the tech sheet on this mettalic paint it says - Metallic Colors: Apply 2 medium wet coats
with 5-10 minutes flash time between coats. A
third and final “mist coat” may be applied if
necessary to even the metallic.
But if I were to spray 2 coats then a "mist coat" Wont it just make the whole truck look dry? Ive sprayed 2 of my friends trucks with the same paint but a green mettalic and then a blue mettalic... The first one I did was the green and I was scrared of runs so I sprayed like 3 coats then as the sheet said I "misted" it all... and it turned out with dry spots all over and some orange peel... then second one was the blue mettalic and it turned out decent... It just didnt really shine like I thought it would... My old school grandpa used to paint alot and he says its because mettalic paint is garbage, blah blah blah... so then I asked him if I could wet sand it and shoot a clear coat over it, and he says u cant clear coat acrylic enamal but I was looking at nasons webaite and they offer a "clear coat" addative that can be mixed with the paint for the final coat...
My second question is... the guy I bought the paint from at the local shop says that if I did happen to screw up that I can wet sand it then buff it to a shine. and on the tech sheet it also says I can buff it but doenst say anything about wet sanding... But then my grandpa says u cant do it to mettalic paint because it will just dull from the mettal thats in it, and on a web site it also said the same thing... So who is right?
Thanks, id really like to figure this out
Nason FUL-CRYL® II ACRYLIC ENAMEL questions
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First of all, I hope your thinner is enamel reducer and not laquer thinner.
Enamel stays "wet" along time and is a lot different than other faster drying paints. If you apply a mist coat while it's still wet it should melt in. I use to add a little retarder for that last light coat, that really helped a lot. Most would add more reducer, but you have to be careful or it'll run real easy. you can buff it if you use the hardener, but even with hardener, enamel stays pretty soft. I would wait a week before buffing. I wouldn't buff a metallic, if you sand into the metallic and expose it, most times it won't maintain a gloss very long afterwards, and some colors will look different creating a blotchy paint job. If you want to cut and buff, you need to clear it. (my opinion) And yes you can clear it if you wait a while. If you want a real slick paint job without buffing, do a flow coat. Paint it, let it sit a day or two, sand it and spray it a second time. That's what I use to do, it's amazing how slick it flows out when spraying enamel over itself a second time. I got some real nice paint jobs that way. Adding a little retarder in place of the reducer makes it flow out like honey without the runs like extra reducer. It's just harder to keep the dirt out with it staying wet so long. But you can mist it on and it all melts in nicely. Good luck with enamel. No one uses it anymore JC.
(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding) |
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My grandpa told me about doing a flow coat. But according to the guy at the paint shop he says that enamel paint emitts somthing while it dries and it takes months for it to stop emitting and if I were to shoot a second coat over top of it that it would make pin holes in the top coat from the gas trying to excape.
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Ive been looking over the net reading about this paint and such... I was wondering what a good tip size would be for spraying mettalic enamel. I havent got a clue on whats in my gun. I was going to use my grandpas Devilbliss gun but it needs to be rebuild it spits so I have to use his back up one and its some kind of shape other then that I know nothing about them.
Also does anyone know what kind of "retarder" I need? or should I just add more reducer to my mix to make it dry slower... |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 1228
Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 1:37 pm Location: Santa Cruz, CA |
Sorry to ask but why are you using enamel? That stuff was being used when the dinosaurs were roaming around. You can get single stage enamel for as little as $80 for a gallon including hardener:n http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-895-ultra-glo-acrylic-urethane-enamel-paints.aspx
Or you can get base and clear if you want to shoot a metallic for less than $200. Why spend the time learning to spray something that is so inferior (is that spelled right?) to what else is out there? Dr. Auto Car Repairs http://www.doctorautorepair.com
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Because thats what the guy sold me... and now im kinda stuck with it and so im just gunna go for it.
my grandpa is a old school painter and he told me to get some acrylic enamel but he didnt say not to get mettalic and I thought it looked good in the pic so I got it for 100$ or so a gal plus another 50 for reducer and some cat. Ive been spraying some stuff around my shop with left over colors of the same paint and even some of my grey and I think im getting the hang of it... But it doesnt seem to have like a nice glass finish to it but its **** close. |
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Well I went for it today and sprayed the truck
It turned out SWEET, I went and bought a gal of the SLOW reducer and it helped out tons and all just melted together and there aint a dry spot anywhere. Theres a picture of it on myspace its the 1992 toyota xtra cab that used to be red and its now Phantom Grey http://www.myspace.com/T0y0ta [/img] |
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Glad to hear it.
If you can spray that metallic enamel, you can spray anything. Congrats!!!! JC.
(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding) |
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Agreed. I used to shoot enamel and I hated it. I get much better results with bc/cc. Your results may vary. |
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