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A favor gone bad...How waterproof is epoxy primer?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:03 pm
I'm steamed and insulted!!

If you remember my post some time ago my neighbor was going to paint the frame of his 67 Chevelle with a rattle can during a body off restore. With advice from this forum and my fair knowledge of paint I convinced him to use epoxy primer and I offered to paint it for him. I gave him info on POR, SPI and PPG Deltron epoxy primer and he picked the PPG product which I sprayed earlier this spring.

He came over today saying that he told a car restoration expert that he painted his frame with epoxy primer. The guy told him that epoxy primer was porous and not waterproof and the frame would need to be top coated.

He is now expecting me to top coat the frame because he thinks that I gave him bad advice. The more I think about it the madder I'm getting. I think I should suggest that his "expert" come over and finish the job. :evil:

What do you guys think, will the epoxy do the job?



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:12 pm
Ummm, epoxy primer is supposed to be an impermiable barrier coat. Dont see how that's changed. It's what most people use to "seal" over their filler work after they block the body out to perfection, before laying on the base and clear. Should be the same as any topcoat epoxy would be????? Or maybe Im missing something here???
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 12:02 am
This is close to four years old, ppg dp epoxy with nothing over it

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Rob

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 1:06 am
Ok, Im not even a paint man. But I have done ohhh so much research on the subject from folks who use a good epoxy. Then I have talked to some "experts" (in their own world) in the industry. I was suprised at how many were still pushing the etch primer.

They would ask me if I used a good etch primer for my bare metal. I would say no, I used an epoxy over the bare metal. Then they would give me a blank stare. Like I was crazy. Like you don't primer over bare metal without using an etch..

Days long gone. A good epoxy will adhere to most clean surfaces. Some take longer to "cure" PPG is one, but once its cured its bonded!!! And they are a good surface to prime or seal over... They "like" another coating on top, where acid or etch can be picky. JR

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 7:09 am
There's a very simple "fix". Have your neighbor call the PPG technical support number, or you call them with him standing right there listening. The guys/gals at PPG in Ohio are extremely helpful.

What better way to make understand than from the people who manufactured the paint?

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-Randy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:45 am
I vaguely remember this topic, I don't recall whether or not you asked if the primer needed to be top coated. I topcoat the frame with a SS urethane after the epoxy myself.
Rob



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 7:42 pm
Thanks to everyone for the reply's. Randy, I will call PPG and see what they say. Nice restore rubudub!!



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 7:47 pm
I an not sure that the paint company will tell you not to worry. As far as I know all epoxy's are made as a primer, and primers are designed to be top coated. I am not saying that they would have to be on an area that will not be exposed to sun light, just that primer is primer and not paint.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 8:27 pm
If I was ball$ to the wall on restore I would want to paint the frame...Probably Bc/Cc 8) But that's me personally :twisted:
Just walk away....



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:04 pm
If he was going to rattle can it, and now he is worrying about it being coated with epoxy then he is an idiot. Tell him to shove it :lol: :lol: :lol:

First tell him that the epoxy is 1000 times better than rattle can paint and then tell him that for $1000 you will scuff the epoxy and shoot some single stage on the frame. if he says yes then great, if not then that is the time to tell him where to shove his rattle can :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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