Newb trying to decide
45 posts
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That's a question for NFT5 (Chris) or PainterDave. They are professionals.
1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Just another dedicated hobbyist here but..... making "colors" sounds fairly simple and straightforward.... It is not. I've made up about 3 of my own over the years and it took a LOT of experimentation to come up with the color "idea" I had in my head. If you really haven't done a lot of painting it is a whole lot easier to just find a paint code you like and go with that. You have to remember too, if you restore a car (to whatever level) you'll drive it, use it, abuse it somewhat, and you'll need to do some minor touch-up or other repair possibly. Again, the paint code is a much simpler fix.....
And, now comments from Dave and NFT5 may continue.... Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Impossible to say. I guess you mean dark grey base over your primer? Pearl? Metallic? What shade of green candy? Best to go with something that's been formulated and known to work. Small changes in the formula, or even the spraying technique can lead to huge differences in the final result. As Darrel says, think about maintenance as well. Some colours are impossible to repair, needing full side or even complete resprays for a small damaged area. And even then might not match. I remember one shop respraying the side of a brand new Falcon 11 times and still only getting it moderately close. Chris
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Settled In
Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2021 1:08 pm Country: USA |
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Settled In
Posts: 31
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2021 1:08 pm Country: USA |
Most of the British Racing Greens I have seen are a little more opaque than I like. Looking for something classic that will still be a little inline with jambs, under bonnets, and trunk lids. I'm not shooting for a true restoration, but a hobby car (autocross, etc.) that looks cool. I had a 70 Mini Panel van (RHD) that I thought I might "restore". Man that thing wore me out. Had to sell it before completing, and never got to have fun with it. I thought I'd just learn as I go, but its hard to teach an old dog new tricks.
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Old style "true" candy colors always consisted of a metallic silver or gold base coat, the candy (think of Kool Aid) dye coat, and the final clears. Looks like what you are showing us there is HOK's Shimrin self candying colors like these....
https://tcpglobal.com/collections/hok-k ... f4QAvD_BwE Those are fine to shoot and even touch up down the road. Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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Prepare and shoot a test panel using stripes of different primers from black to shades of gray or just use one of those test cards. Mark down how many coats and pressure you shot at for future reference. Take it out in the sun and pick which one that you like the best. When shooting your actual car you can now use this panel for reference inside your booth/shop (or in my case, the Pig Barn). Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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Are you planning to leave the jambs, under hood and trunk, the stock color while changing the exterior color? This would leave two shades of green along with the gold striped hood. I don't think you'd be satisfied with it. I like the stock green (metallic?), with the gold stripes. This would be easiest if you're not repainting the jambs and under-panels. It also keeps the paint code original if you're OCD like me. If you go with candy green, paint the jambs etc. too, and spray a coat of silver (or gold) underneath to make it pop. It'll make a huge difference. Just my thoughts. I always say someone should paint their vehicle the color THEY like... "If you can't move it, paint it." - U.S. Army
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No Turning Back
Posts: 597
Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:36 am Country: USA |
I have seen a classic Mercury that a guy had painted, in Candy Apple Red, by a regular bodyshop (not one specializing in custom paint). They shot the Candy Red over gray primer. Looked absolutely horrible. Even the guy who owned it, knew. He was referred to me, by a friend, but the expense of removing most of the old paint, and them doing it in REAL candy (red over metallic base), was too high for him at the time, esp. after paying a lot for the first job!
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So....if you haven't noticed it yet....if you are trying to get that "different" or "special" color there is a price to pay to get to it. If it is something like I'll do this primer, this base (stock code or like an HOK color), and clear coats then just make notes, do sprayout samples and you'll be probably be fine. If you start saying things like "pop", "bling", or "twinkle" compared to more standard looks then you'll have to have careful notes about everything including gun settings, etc. Look at this....I came to this website 17 years ago because I had never shot anything but solid colors except on model cars. It was a long learning curve but there isn't too much in the way of color I wouldn't tackle now. With your lack of experience I'd try to stay on the stock sides of the color/effect spectrum.....at least for now....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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