Buick T-Type (Grand National) Full paint!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:40 pm
I did attempt to grind off the filler the previous owner applied. I thought I bought 80 grit from Harbor freight but they put the price sticker over the grit and I didn't look on the back of the package, either way i'm glid I got 40 because its taking a lil longer than expected.



QUESTION: Is sandpaper and a DA the best way to remove the filler?



FINDINGS: From what I can tell, although I couldn't really grind all of the stuff off, but it looks like he installed some sheet metal with rivets? Is this a horrible way of doing these repairs?



PICS:



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What do you think?



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:34 pm
I was told by a few people I need to go down to bare metal due to the clear pealing allowing the base to get contaminated? Any thoughts I believe the car is a Laquer paint. Is this a possibility?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:12 am
the paint looks to be all cracked up so you should remove all the paint to bare metal
in the immortal words of Frank Sinatra "That's Life"



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:24 am
jamon8 wrote:the paint looks to be all cracked up so you should remove all the paint to bare metal

What should I use as a chemical stripper? Will it also take off filler?



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:52 pm
any updates?



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 1:47 am
Stay away from chemical strippers

Your gonna uncover a Nightmare with that one! Rivits holding a patch on with cheap filler is not a good sign! that door probably needs a new skin or a new door.
Rust more than likely underneath the patches.
If that car is from rust belt your gonna find lots more of the same patches through out the car more than likely or worse but you could get lucky.
If I'm rite and you just jump in stripping whole car your gonna find yourself way in over your head real fast with rust repairs.

Lacquer went out a long time ago long before the Grand nationals came out probably Acrylic Enamel. Looks like its been repainted to me and looks like cheap body work to me to so I betcha they used cheap enamel
Last edited by Doright on Fri Mar 06, 2015 1:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 1:32 pm
John
This is what I use for stripping paint and filler, Makes short work of it with a Variable speed buffer motor do a whole car down to bare metal in short time. Don't tilt the pad on its edge! keep it flat or it will wears the side out extremely fast.

7-8 inch 3M Stripping Pad
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Velcro side
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Attach Pad uses a Velcro to attach pad
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Pads are kind of expensive and can be hard to find but their worth every penny and the time spent to find them, they will make short work of stripping paint and filler.
Use a Cheap Variable speed Buffer from Harbor fright keep the speed about medium.
The faster you turn it the more it will heat up and wear out pads faster.

As far as sanding Blocks go Get the Good hard composite ones from 3M they are more expensive but worth the money.

As far as sand paper goes I have heard good and bad about so many its hard to suggest anything, Norton comes to mind as a good cheap one, I have never used it and There are many others.
I'm still using up a bunch of cheap Indasa I bought in bulk a while back as I run out I have been replacing it with 3M stuff they have so many different ones its not funny and prices are all over the place its a lot more expensive too but you save money by it lasting longer as It doesn't dull out as fast. Spending money on good Sand paper and good blocks is an investment that will pay off they will save you time and money and in the end.

What did you end up doing with the Door Pillar post crack anything yet?
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 1:13 am
Whoa! I didn't know they made those pads that big. That can cut down on my use of the 3" ones.
Doright is spot on with the 3M stuff. It's high $$ but last so much longer and leaves a cleaner smoother scratch behind. You cain't beat it.
If it ain't BROKE fix it till it is!!



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 9:42 pm
John
As far as RUST goes It needs to be cut out and new metal welded in is best with that being said yes I have a good metal treatment for LIGHT rust. BUT The rust needs to be removed BY Blasting, Wire wheel or sanding. As far as Blasting media is concerned my favorite is Glass followed by Aluminum oxide or Black beauty.

Once all traces of rust are removed a Product made by Dupont can be used called 5717 and 5718 the instructions need to be followed to a T and thoroughly washed after wards with soap and water.

If the panel is rusting from behind It really needs to be removed and new metal welded in.

There are Products called Rust bullet or Por15 these products are meant to be applied directly over rust do not remove it as it needs to be applied directly over rust but you do need to take the loose stuff off and clean it good before applying it to work properly. I have not used these products & I have no experience with them.

I like the Dupont product, Its more of a Metal conditioner or metal treatment than a rust converter. A good rust converter would be a Product like Navel Jelly.

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After treatment with 5717 it looks like this
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After 5718 it looks like this after washing with soap and water and allowing to air dry
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Most of this car was stripped with the pads posted above and then smaller ones followed by light blasting before metal treatment and application of Epoxy.

The adhesive patch I did some time ago

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The gap & Cleico holes where cleaned of all traces of panel adhesive and Fiber glass applied over it Epoxy was applied by brush all over the inside.
The inside was also blasted prior to the Patch being made and installed.
If I where to do it over again I would weld it But i wanted to do the repair like this to show it could be done, To do it better next time I would have no gap and maybe fewer Clieco holes.
Is the repair text book? No, did it work? Yes, is it strong? Yes,
Is it gonna get any one killed? NO
Its a heck of a lot better than being filled with news paper and Screen and Bondo like I have pulled out of other cars over the years I leave that up to you to decide.
Last edited by Doright on Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:36 am
I'm behind on updating this thread, I already have all my patching done with the car.

I'll try to post some pictures later.

I need to prime, paint and clear the inside of the doors, and the door jams so I can bolt the doors on the car, so I can align them without ruining the paint on them(if I painted both sides off the car).

I also need to,do the door hinge pins just because its a good time with the doors off, I've never done them before though, hope it's not that hard.

So I do need to get those stripping discs, they're ok to use with a DA? I think my cheap harbor freight DA came with hook and loop pad.

So once the doors are on, I have to figure out how to tape off the inner jams that I don't plan tto paint.
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