W.I.P. Repainting 2000 Tundra

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:55 pm
Lol factory peel the natural peel from the manufacturers factory = good
(This is the peel you try to copy when clearing cars , unless you want some show quality flat surface BLAH blah)

Orange peel whether from too wet or too dry of clear ,bad gun settings, bad technique =bad



And lol the re coat time of clear is hardly within a hour spraying your first coat of clear.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:15 pm
chris wrote:Please explain the difference between 'factory peel' and 'orange peel'.

If Nate is within the recoat window of the clear, no prep is needed...if not then either sand it or scuff with prep paste.


Chris, it's been a couple of weeks since I sprayed the clear, so I will need some sanding or scuffing. Does this change your opinion any?

What is prep paste? Would a good scrubbing with a grey Scotchbrite pad do the same?

Thanks.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:24 pm
Prep paste is a light abrasive cleaner that's it , it's mainly used for raw aftermarket/factory bumpers to do it being getting passed from truck to truck getting who knows what on it. Some people use it before they clear/blend panels to be extra clean. Ajax or comet mixed with water is the same thing as prep paste . Your welcome

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:30 pm
There are many clears you can recoat within 8 hours and some within 24 hours especially with a home DIYer who has not let the vehicle out into sunlight or baked the clear in a booth. The tech sheet for the clear will tell you.

But...two weeks...yeah you need to prep it. Sanding is best of course. Scotch pad alone will not do it. On a hood or roof, I'd sand it.

Here's the brochure for the scuff paste:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1577 ... -06013.pdf

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:34 pm
Littlevil wrote:Prep paste is a light abrasive cleaner that's it , it's mainly used for raw aftermarket/factory bumpers to do it being getting passed from truck to truck getting who knows what on it. Some people use it before they clear/blend panels to be extra clean. Ajax or comet mixed with water is the same thing as prep paste . Your welcome


Thank you.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:35 pm
chris wrote:There are many clears you can recoat within 8 hours and some within 24 hours especially with a home DIYer who has not let the vehicle out into sunlight or baked the clear in a booth. The tech sheet for the clear will tell you.

But...two weeks...yeah you need to prep it. Sanding is best of course. Scotch pad alone will not do it. On a hood or roof, I'd sand it.

Here's the brochure for the scuff paste:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1577 ... -06013.pdf


Alrighty then. Thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:19 am
All I can say is UGH! The most dreaded part of this restoration. Soaking in Goo Gone for a couple of days softens the adhesive, and a sturdy thumbnail is the perfect tool to scrape the adhesive off, if you can take the pain.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:32 pm
I replaced all the rusted away mounting clips on my wheel well trim, and finally, after much pain, got all the adhesive off the badges and molding. Everything is cleaned up for painting to match (not the badges, just the black plastic).

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 2:53 pm
Here are some more pictures.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 3:19 pm
Got my Line-X bedliner recently.

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