W.I.P. Repainting 2000 Tundra

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 355
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:04 pm
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL, USA
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 3:32 pm
Littlevil wrote:Yea you could.. But you should want to better properly sand your clear before you clear. Wet 800 or 1000. It will knock down the peel and give a nice flat surface to re clear on too. Just use the grey pad for edges


I'm worried about sanding through to the base. Figured I could knock it down to the clear and make it nice and flat after two more coats. Why sand twice?
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:20 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 3:46 pm
I'm assuming you're re clearing because you're unsatisfied with result of how your clear coat laid out right?

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 355
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:04 pm
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL, USA
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 4:03 pm
No cutting and buffing or anything today. I did finish my Christmas present to my wife, a cool looking "antique" serving cart. She makes her own wine and can't lift the bucket full of fermenting stuff, so this will help her move it around the kitchen when she goes to racking.

I made it out of new southern yellow pine 2x4s from Lowes. In order to make it look like barn lumber, I ran the face of each board through my bandsaw with the resawing blade just skimming the face of the boards. Did the same thing with my table saw to put kerf marks on the edges. The wheels are antique derby cart wheels, and the cast iron casters and handles (actually furniture feet) are antiques,too. The handle bar came from a piece of iron pipe that had been laying in a pile outside. I trimmed down some cut nails, wobbled out ovals in the top, and hammered them in to give it an old-timey look. I antiqued all the new, shiney screws by hitting them with a wire wheel, soaking them in acid, heating with a propane torch, then soaking in hydrogen peroxide. I used lacquer based spray stain (a mix of leftovers), sealed with conversion varnish sealer, glazed with mocha, then reapplied a coat of sealer. It's under--er, beside--the Christmas tree. Knocked it out in two days.

Two more little projects to make for my mom and mother-in-law (gardening storage centers made from a pallet), then I'll be home free to work on the truck again. :happy:

Image


I know this is not a woodworking forum, but I just wanted to share. Wish I could spray clear coat as well as I do this kind of stuff.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 355
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:04 pm
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL, USA
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 4:08 pm
Littlevil wrote:I'm assuming you're re clearing because you're unsatisfied with result of how your clear coat laid out right?


Yeah. The hood and roof were difficult for me to reach (5' 8" with T-Rex arms), so they didn't turn out all that great. It's going to take a good amount of sanding to level the OP, so I was going to spray two more coats, then cut, buff, and polish. Also, the hood and roof are beaten down by this Florida sun, so it wouldn't hurt to have a little thicker coat on top.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:20 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 7:16 pm
Think of clear coat as just a protective window to see through , if your clear looked bad the first time , clearing over it again is going to show most of the things you didn't like in the first place. Which is why you'd want to sand it flat and not just scuff it up with grey pad.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 355
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:04 pm
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL, USA
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:53 am
Littlevil wrote:Think of clear coat as just a protective window to see through , if your clear looked bad the first time , clearing over it again is going to show most of the things you didn't like in the first place. Which is why you'd want to sand it flat and not just scuff it up with grey pad.


I don't mean to be dense, so my apologizes. Given the difficulty I had with spraying the roof and the hood, I anticipate that I will have some OP after the 4th coat, regardless of how flat the 2nd coat is before re-spraying. So, if I'm going to cut and buff anyway after the 4th coat, does it really have to be flat? Am I going to see evidence of the 2d coat orange peel under the cut and buffed 4th coat?
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.

User avatar

No Turning Back
Posts: 527
Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 6:53 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 3:58 pm
nate, if the whole thing isn't completely matte looking, if you see tiny "stars" in what you have sanded you will see them after the cut n buff. Also, even if you get what you think is completely flat, you may see some "urethane wave" after buffing, still better than orange peel... only way to completely eliminate everything would be to start with 600 on a very firm block and go up from that... that would be a bit ridiculous on a "work truck" or most projects.

My Nova still has the urethane wave in spots, I just live with it, it is what it is... still looks better than most cars that are actually driven... not worth a repaint, because I've cut and buffed it to the maximum... might throw some clear on it in the spring, because I am just that mental about these things... :knockout: :splat:

User avatar

Site Admin
Posts: 3450
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 3:02 am
Location: New York
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:27 pm
Littlevil wrote:Think of clear coat as just a protective window to see through , if your clear looked bad the first time , clearing over it again is going to show most of the things you didn't like in the first place. Which is why you'd want to sand it flat and not just scuff it up with grey pad.


This hasn't been my experience. If coats 1 and 2 have orange peel, shoot coat three, then sand it and buff. No need to sand between coats of clear. The thick film is monolithic, there is no distinction between layers of clear.

User avatar

Fully Engaged
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:20 pm

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:35 pm
chris wrote:
Littlevil wrote:Think of clear coat as just a protective window to see through , if your clear looked bad the first time , clearing over it again is going to show most of the things you didn't like in the first place. Which is why you'd want to sand it flat and not just scuff it up with grey pad.


This hasn't been my experience. If coats 1 and 2 have orange peel, shoot coat three, then sand it and buff. No need to sand between coats of clear. The thick film is monolithic, there is no distinction between layers of clear.


There is a difference from factory peel and orange peel. He was saying orange peel which is technically a defect which is why you correct the problem and not just spray a bunch of clear over it and hope for the best. Do you know any reputable business that accepts a quick scuff of grey pad as a proper prep and repair before clear?

User avatar

Site Admin
Posts: 3450
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 3:02 am
Location: New York
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 10:45 pm
Please explain the difference between 'factory peel' and 'orange peel'.

If Nate is within the recoat window of the clear, no prep is needed...if not then either sand it or scuff with prep paste.
PreviousNext

Return to Completed & In Progress Member Projects

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 80 guests