Lenny B's First Restoration Project - 1968 Mustang
Well after getting sidetracked with the Holidays and remodeling the laundry room for the wife, I finally made it back to my Mustang project. I finished painting the underbody and engine bay. I ended up applying PPG's Defleet Essentials Single stage over the epoxy in a flat (actually looks satin) finish. About $120 for 5 RTS quarts. Pretty happy with the results.
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6213
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
What kind of Spot putty did you use? Was is that Red or Green stuff that's in a Big red/white or Green/white tube looks big Tooth paste looking tube ? https://www.zoro.com/3m-glazing-putty-g ... /G1925917/ Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
I used Evercoat's Polyester Glazing Putty. I scuffed the spots with 80 grit first. They were just real minute spots, like the diameter of a pea max and the depth of maybe the thickness of a garbage bag.
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6213
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
I haven't tried that one yet I been wanting to try the Quantum and the Poly flex for rubber/plastic bumpers.
I don't use spot fillers myself, usually I just mix up a tad bit of what ever filler I have been using for pin holes I miss. I don't use the super expensive fillers from Evercoat any more either, I buy Evercoats Shop brand and add Their Honey too it too thin it down a tad that makes it have less air bubbles that way I get fewer Pin holes. You cant put Filler on real thick when you use the Honey. Your filler can actually run down the panel if you add too much honey takes some practice with the stuff. http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/ ... 101249/us/ Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
I use Marson Platinum filler, now made by 3M, and like Dennis I use the honey when I want to put it on thin and creamy. Great for the little fixes.
The honey seems expensive at first but you will find a little goes a long way and the can lasts a very long time. I have also used the Evercoat Poly flex when working on plastic bumpers and fiberglass motorcycle parts. Since I don't use a lot of it, nearly half the container set up on me after a couple of years on the shelf. It is great stuff and works like they say. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Well, I'm back to blocking, blocking, and more blocking. Slowly but surely I'm getting there. I still have to block the fenders and hood. Both are in their final coat of urethane primer. Then, prep, prime, and block both valances, stone shield and all the little pieces like fender and quarter extension, hood turn signal bezels, etc.... My goal is still to have everything in paint and ready for assembly by the end of summer.
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Painting is the easy part.
1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Made a little more progress. Painted the dash and dash pieces including: glove box door, ash try, and steering column. I stripped the items to bare metal, then epoxied, followed by 3 coats of base, then 2 coats of clear. I used PPG Deltron for the base and Matrix MS42 high solids clear with flattener added to get a flat/low gloss finish.
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Looking good.
Spraying color is always rewarding after all the hard work prepping the panels. When you get to the larger panels spraying a sealer will help you see any issues before applying the color. It is an extra step but does have its benefits. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Some more interior paint pics. All interior color is complete, yahhh!. Next up is to do the final blocking on the cab and paint the jams, inner trunk, and bottom side of hood and deck lid.
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