1970 Datsun 510

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:34 pm
Hey everyone, here I am again. Lol

I'm going to overload this first post with photos to give an idea of where I am with the project.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:43 pm
Nevermind, only 5 photos per post. Lol
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Passenger side rocker marked for cutting
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:55 pm
A few more...

This is about where the project stands. Any help and suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks for having me!
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My inspiration
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 2:50 am
So... I have epoxy primer from Eastwood, but I found out I could use high build primer direct to metal and skip the epoxy. Would it be beneficial to lay the epoxy primer on before high build? Or will I still want to seal the high build with epoxy after it is blocked?

I started the filler work on the left rear quarter panel today. The filler I removed from this panel was terrible. It didn't appear as though any attempt with a hammer and dollies was made before somebody used the filler and the fender lip was nearly smoothed over. I did my best and am hoping I can use half the filler as the last people that repaired this. I'd love a new quarter panel, but at $500+ I think I'll use what I've got.
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Before cheese grating. I think I waited a bit too long to start grating as it got hard quickly

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:08 am
On vehicles were there are enough small dents and damage to require skimming the entire panel with filler, I use Polyester Primer. Evercoat Featherfill G2 is my choice but SlickSand is another widely used poly primer. This is basically spray on body filler.

I personally use black ********** epoxy primer on the bare metal and then shoot the 3 coats of poly primer over it seen here:
Poly Primer.JPG


Then I block sand with p80 on a long block until I start to see the black show through:
Block Sand 80.JPG


Repeat until you are confident the panel is straight and then shoot your 2k primer, guide coat and block sand.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 2:49 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:On vehicles were there are enough small dents and damage to require skimming the entire panel with filler, I use Polyester Primer. Evercoat Featherfill G2 is my choice but SlickSand is another widely used poly primer. This is basically spray on body filler.

I personally use black ********** epoxy primer on the bare metal and then shoot the 3 coats of poly primer over it...


As a weekend rookie hack, I have a question regarding the HOK KD3000 DTS and Tamco HP-5310: Direct to Metal, High Build primers.

I have been using the HOK KD3000 in one color, then reduced down in a second color as a guide. After that I use the G2FF (sand off, apply again, sand off, apply again, send money to the Evercoat folks, apply again and keep on sanding.)

* Should I first be using a true Epoxy Primer first?
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:55 pm
I definitely plan to still get filler primer to spray after the body work is done. Is there a thickness limit for filler primer, like there is with plain filler?

If anyone has ever seen those big flexible blades for shaping the filler while it's wet, I'm sure you thought it would be helpful. But they are expensive, so I found a big flexible spackle blade for drywall work. $2 I think. It doesn't have the various body contours built into the blade profile, but it's easy to use once you get the hang of it.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 11:17 pm
OldFatBald wrote:* Should I first be using a true Epoxy Primer first?


Not necessary if your primer is specified as DTM. However, an epoxy primer does have specific rust prevention advantages, so it's up to you. If the car was likely to see severe service conditions then I'd go epoxy first, otherwise the DTM high builds are just fine.


Noflers wrote:I definitely plan to still get filler primer to spray after the body work is done. Is there a thickness limit for filler primer, like there is with plain filler?


The use of polyester fillers bothers me, unless really necessary. If you get your metal and bog work straight then there shouldn't be a need for a polyester filler. To me it's a solution for poor workmanship or a cheap and nasty alternative. Remember that the aim is to keep total coating thickness as low as possible, while still within the limits prescribed in the TDS, of course.

Love the old Datto. I had a 1600 back in the '70s, same colour as that light blue 2 door in your pics. Was an awesome little car. It had had one of those awful one day auto spray paint jobs which was failing. Myself and a mate gave it a full closed door respray in his back yard in a single day. All done in acrylic, including cut and buff and by 4pm we were sucking on coldies. That paint job lasted and still looked like new when I sold it about 3 years later.
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 12:26 am
I don't mean polyester primer necessarily. Just a good high build primer because I'm kind of assuming the roof and pillars aren't perfect. Then again, I probably should just spray the epoxy then use guide coat and blocks to know for sure.

And what about the trunk and hood? Is regular filler fine for them even with the flex they experience?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 3:45 am
Some filler on bonnet or boot is fine, but like anything else it's all about keeping it to a minimum. Get your metal straight and you won't need more than a light skim. Excessive filler thickness will just cause problems later.
Chris
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