1970 Datsun 510

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 5:32 pm
After that first filler session, I decided to narrow the focus on the upper section first. Ever so slight compound curve to mix things up. I've been using Mirka dry guide coat when blocking and I have a question. Can I put filler in the low spots over the guide coat, or do I need to sand the guide coat out of the lows first?

My next question involves getting the epoxy over with finally. All the unprotected steel worries me, expecting to go in the garage one morning to find rust all over the car, lol. I'm using two of those moisture absorbers for RV's and storage units, they seem to do a great job. It used to get real humid in there when it got warm, no more. But still, I need to protect the metal.

I'll probably be able to get to it early next week, but I'm wondering if I should kick into high gear and finish the filler on this panel first. Or if I can spray over the unfinished filler and use it as guide coat. I think I know the answer, but any other insights are appreciated.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 5:42 pm
Inching my way closer here guys....

I bought a cheap media blaster gun and a box of ground walnut shells (24g). It helped a ton in getting into some tight spaces and for blasting rust away. I can't believe how fast I went through about 20lbs of the stuff, even with frequent breaks because my compressor couldn't keep up. Anyway, garage is cleared back out again and I'm on to more detail work.

I have a question about prepping the areas in the photo (Door opening flange, pinch weld maybe it's called?). All the adhesive has been removed And it's scuffed real well, but is it necessary to remove all the paint in those areas? Because it looks like a hand cramping nightmare with my carpal tunnel! Once it's painted trim goes on here and it'll never see the light of day again.

I did pop the rear glass out after avoiding it long enough.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 8:31 pm
Get yourself some Aircraft Paint Stripper. Autozone sells it I think. Brush it on and it will blister that paint in a few minutes and it will come right off.
Be sure to rinse it well with soap and water when done and the blow dry with compressed air.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2018 9:09 pm
Honestly I wanted to avoid the stripper just because my garage is basically the downstairs of my place, and the fumes! Oh well, I laid it on. I'm actually trying some new stuff I found at Fred Meyer. It works about the same and is about the same price.

Here's something, there were a few places (mostly the door jambs) where the stripper had no effect. Even where I'm putting it now it isn't making the paint bubble in spots. Even after scraping the top layer off, the stripper wouldn't affect those spots.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 11:07 am
The Aircraft Paint stripper seems to tackle the tougher areas. If those spots are that securely adhered to the metal, you shouldn't have any problem putting epoxy primer over them.

So where do you plan to spray your paint?
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 5:26 pm
I'm considering a portable garage sort of structure so I can do the spraying in the driveway. I'll feel more comfortable wetting the ground out there, and it'll be dedicated to painting so I won't worry about taping plastic up. It's like $150 convenience item, which I'll still use as a portable garage later.... Not sure yet if that's the route I'll go.

I've gone over most everything with 180g on the DA now. Just lots of detail work to get to by hand now.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 2:40 pm
This thing took forever to come clean. But here it is, round one: epoxy primer. Will it be okay to leave it at just one coat since I'm not 100% done with body work?

I used a piece of cardboard to dial in the spray pattern, then just went for it. Sooo satisfying. My 21 gal 2.5hp compressor more or less keeps up with the purple HF gun, is that weird?
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