So guys are using mini belt sanders to grind the spot welds away.
I have one so I think I'll give it a try.
1968 Plymouth GTX
1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6217
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Ya I have seen you and others talk about doing it that way before and if it works great. BUT IF your trying to save the panel your removing it sure would make a big hole.
I have been very successful at taking my time removing then repairing and reusing panels with methods put forth by Chevman. Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Old floor pan is finally out!
54 years of dust accumulation to be vacuumed out. Next job is to media blast all of this and get it sprayed with epoxy primer. Then I will begin transferring the parts from the bottom of the old pan to the new pan. 1968 Coronet R/T
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6217
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Nice job!!!!
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Congrats on getting all of those spot welds loose and floor out in one piece.
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Started transferring parts to the new floor pan.
Media blasted the seat belt nut supports, painted the inside and welded them into place. Drilled the 2 1/2" hole for the shifter linkage. Installed the emergency cable guide. Started laying out and drilling the spot weld holes in the new pan. A lot more to do on that. 1968 Coronet R/T
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Test fitted the pan today.
Had to repair my pressure blaster because the media had worn a hole through the barbed portion of the aluminum T. A friend gave me this Horrible Freight blaster a number of years ago and so far the tank is the only thing I haven't had to replace. Hope to get the rest of the floor and support rails blasted and covered in epoxy by the end of the week. In the mean time, there are a lot more spot weld holes to drill. 1968 Coronet R/T
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6217
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
I too have replaced everything but the Tank, I made a new Bottom T with Nipples and a T fitting out of Galvanized Pipe fittings from Home depot. Are you still using the original Dead man valve control at end of hose? After replacing mine twice I made my own from a Ball valve that I have had to replace multiple times now. The cheap ceramic tips are another problem I keep looking for a Good Hi quality yard blaster but they are very expensive even used ones are very expensive. Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Got rid of the dead man valve first thing. Basically sounds like we have followed the same path. Ball valve on end of hose, new ball valve and galvanized fittings at the bottom. 1968 Coronet R/T
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The old floor pan was so rusted and distorted that I couldn't trust the spot weld transfers to the new pan.
So I made some measurements and then placed a piece of masking tape on the panel with one edge being on the center line of the frame support. Then I measured and recalculated the location of the spot welds to get them more evenly distributed. 1968 Coronet R/T
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