1968 Plymouth GTX

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 11:50 am
Yes, I have shrinking discs and Blue Dykem just haven't needed it yet.
The issues I am dealing with now are the big ones, then I will go back over it like you suggest.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2022 12:26 pm
In my experience the small ones can cause more panel distortion than the big ones when straightening a panel especially when their was a lot of damage at some point.

Not saying your panel is bad at all it looks really nice at this point it really does!

BUT when playing with a panel the smaller ones can keep a panel locked up from doing what you want it too is all I am saying, Just my experience.
Its cool when you get em unlocked and the panel Jumps in the direction you need or want it to go with very little effort always amazes me.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 5:44 pm
Dakota is gone.
Had to wash a bunch of dust and dirt off but the GTX is back in the garage.

Finally Back in the Garage.JPG


I may even celebrate and change the masking paper on the wall. :happy:
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 6:17 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Dakota is gone.
Had to wash a bunch of dust and dirt off but the GTX is back in the garage.

I may even celebrate and change the masking paper on the wall. :happy:


Awesome!

Nice clean shop BTW. Is that where you spray? If so, how wide and long is that bay?

I have plans into the County applying for a building permit for my new "Pig Barn II" shop with three bays. One I plan on using to spray (among other things), it is 36' long and 20' wide. It will be used for multiple duties.
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2022 12:16 pm
Inside the Booth is 14'6" wide, 25'6" long with 10' ceiling.

I have the car supported on jack stands and the measurements at the support areas are less than 1/16" different.

The existing floor pan seems to be structurally sound and diagonal measurements inside the car and engine compartment are identical.
Existing Floor Pan.JPG


My plan is to install the new drip rails and roof skin first. This should increase the structural integrity of the vehicle so floor pan replacement, though tedious, should go smoothly. (I can hear you laughing.)

Roof skin seems to fit quite well.
Roof Skin Fit Rear Window.JPG

Roof Skin Fit Quarter Panel.JPG

Roof Skin Fit A pillar.JPG


Does this sound like a good plan?
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 12:25 pm
If you got the car supported on the Rocker panel Pinch welds? and you got it within a 1/16" front to rear your doing good! I would make sure its level side to side is all again supported from the Pinch welds at the rockers.

I foresee a lot of C clamps and or Vise grips are in your future....

I thought you were getting a rotisserie?
Jeggs has one for less than $1200

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance ... ufEALw_wcB
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2022 1:50 pm
Yep, C-clamps already ordered.

Most of the rotisseries are closer to $2000 when you get the necessary attachments.

I may try to modify a couple of engine stands but will check the link to Jegs first.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2022 8:53 am
I know I told you I got the Titan model b4 and I did get all the bells and whistles with it BUT I think you'd do better making your own attachments for any of them. The ones they sell are pretty generic.

I ended up making that one to get the car by the Pinch welds, I am gonna rebuild it and change my design But I like that way of holding the car by the Pinch welds far better than trying to hold the car by the bumper mounts.

I cant turn the car over on its roof which I never wanted to do any way BUT I can get it on its side I also cant flip it by myself! It does take two people at this time just to be on safe side. My center of gravity is off a little, I need to rebuild my design and lower it I think once I do that it should be a lot easier to flip the car by myself.

By the way I got all my 2 inch C clamps at Harbor freight on the cheap.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q= ... C%20clamps

I bought like 50 or so when I did the roof on a Chrysler years ago at the time all they had was the smaller Pitburgh ones pictured I like those deep ones.
You can always use sheet metal screws in the window frame front and rear no harm no fowl.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2022 12:28 pm
Decided to put the passenger door on hold for a while.
Gets frustrating when trying to shoot for perfection. The straight edge says it's very close but I can still feel imperfections when running a cloth over it.
Some Progress 2.JPG


Clamped the left drip rail into place and marked the hole locations. These AMD parts seem to fit perfectly.
Drip Rails Preparation 1.JPG


Clamped back into place and then started welding.
Welding Left side.JPG


Takes me a while to get the welder dialed in. Hopefully by the time I get this side down, things will be looking much nicer. :splat:

Drip Rail Left Installation.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2022 10:15 am
The front left drip rail was pretty beat up and the chrome trim wouldn't snap into place properly, so I replaced it with one I had laying around.

Left Front Drip Rail Replaced.JPG


Then drilled all the holes and prepped the right side drip rail for installation.

Drip Rail Right Installation.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31
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