My wife has a small dent in her door,
(it's about 2 yrs old now)
1968 Plymouth GTX
JC.
(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding) |
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Oh, I know that story quite well. LOL
Installed the tachometer. The lens has some deep scratches on the left side and a few pits in other places. I plan to just live with it for now but keep my eye out for a better quality lens. Finished media blasting the dash, welded up extra holes on the underside and sprayed with epoxy primer. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Switch panel is in rough shape.
After some cleaning and fresh paint. Gonna have to store this stuff while I get back to work on the Dodge Dakota sitting in my yard. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6234
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Nice work on the dash!
Are you gonna have the Switches re chromed or buy new ones? Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Still debating. Most re-chroming methods cost almost as much as replacement switches. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6234
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
I am planning on sending a Bunch of stuff I want to look Chromed too Painter Dave.
That chrome paint system he has is very unique. I am planning to Glass bead the stuff and send him boxes of stuff for chrome paint. especially on the Chrysler. Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
The interior pieces (as well as missing exterior emblems and trim) can add up in a hurry. I learned that is one of the main things to consider when deciding if a potential car is the right one to restore. The body and mechanical are easy. A missing dash, pitted metal interior pieces, bad wiring harnesses, etc.... seam to be the challenge for me.
PS - Keep posting updates. I enjoy seeing your processes and progress. Thanks for sharing. |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6234
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Tune for kill with a Mopar with good fuel. Only way to set one up! Being conservative on timing leads to carbon build detonation & sluggish performance. Carb has to be tuned Right and adjusted properly jetted at edge of too lean Plug readings are critical. Dialing in distributor curve also critical. None of it hard but it is time consuming. Gearing and Torq converter stall come into play as well. As I remember your slugs had .010 down in hole that's pretty high compression for a Big ol 440 with smog heads its gonna like timing to be up there 32-36 all in around 2000 - 2200 rpm depending on Stall converter & gearing. What intake and Carb combo are you running? Wrong choice can be a Torque looser easily. Also you are running Long tube headers right? or did you go with Stock exhaust? again you need good fuel. There are more than a few good tuners over at Moparts.com but you know this. I love my Carbs The way I was taught to get a Good plug reading Run car under load wide open down road till it gets on big end leave foot on floor shut it off leaving foot on floor put in neutral wait long enough for engine too stop turning over pull over stop get out start pulling plugs look at Porclin should be a Nice light golden brown if black and sooty its too rich if its pure white its too lean adjust Main jets in carb accordingly. never jump more than 2 jet sizes at a time This may and probably will need to be repeated MULTIPLE times to get it right! A lot of HP can be gained with proper jetting. Thermo quads, AFB's and Quadra jets all can be a little tricky with the Jets and metering rod combos but there are available charts to guide you. Once set up properly though They run good very hard to beat. Another thing to think about is your governor in tranny adjusting rpm shift point may be necessary! depends on Mods (Voodoo!) there are kits available to adjust shift point. A chassis dyno is way to go for all this But can be done old school by seat of pants. Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Decided to block sand the driver's door to see what kind of shape it was in.
The car was covered in gray primer when I got it, so the gray areas are the lowest, then blue, brown and finally metal. You can see here there are a lot of lows spots: Figured this was a good time to start practicing my metal working skills, so beginning at the front of the door I began hammer and dolly working the metal toward the rear of the door. Was making good progress until I found a nasty spot. Worked this by putting blue Dykem over the area to help "see" the lows and highs. This is the third application: Finally had to quit because of time constraints and my arm being sore from reaching through the hole in the door panel to get to the backside of the metal. Obviously more to be done: 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Top Contributor
Posts: 6234
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
That's almost right behind the main door Brace isnt it?
Hard area to get at, I used a Slapping Spoon to get in there as a Dolly. https://www.eastwood.com/slapping-spoon ... HHEALw_wcB Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
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