1968 Plymouth GTX

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 9:36 pm
I have been searching the net for pictures. Found a couple and it appears the area is raised by design and should run smooth/even/flat from there up.

Sandblasting the structure now and should finish it sometime tomorrow. Then I will need to form and weld in some patches.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 5:41 am
Its hard to imagine how the inner structure would be bent with no dents or tell tale previous repairs made to the skin that you cut off already? Not impossible but a Hit hard enough to mess with the inner roof structure would be a Pretty hard hit you'd think it would show up some where else on the body ?
Dennis Barnett
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:13 am
What I find interesting is that the rust hole through the quarter panel shown here:
Quarter Panel Left Rust.JPG


Is not in the same location as the rust hole through the structure:
Roof Structure Sail panel Rust.JPG


You can see the outer rust hole is below the spot welds and at the end of the drip rail. Whereas the upper hole and the severely rusted is above the quarter panel seam.

It looks to me as though the indentation is actually caused from rusted away metal.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 4:41 pm
Rust itself is not gonna cause the metal to warp or bend.
Dennis Barnett
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 10:11 pm
Finally found a photo with just a glimpse of that area. Looks to be just the one indentation below the quarter panel seam.

Here's the underside of the roof skin:
Roof Skin Underside Rust.JPG


Started media blasting the shell starting with the roof structure. Heavy rust in three areas that will be cut out and patches welded in.
Roof Support Outside Right.JPG

Roof Support Right Center.JPG

Roof Support Inside Right.JPG

Leftside Cowl.JPG


Began stripping the shell:
Left Inner Fender.JPG

Engine Compartment Left.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2019 3:59 pm
The Blasting looks like is going well what media are you using?

I just got a Fresh shipment in was supposed to be Glassblast but shipper substituted it for another similar product in fines and no silica but still I am not happy with the substitution! Dealer showed me a few others products in same price range I may try after this batch. Including one made from Coal slag not to interested in that one due to the black dust associated with it very messy,I am only interested in Glass products with no Silica.
Dennis Barnett
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2019 4:45 pm
Soooo, another rookie question; how are you guys blasting those areas at home?

* Are you using one of those hand held "Speed Blasters"?

And if so,

* What media?
* How do you clean up any mess - media, blasted paint etc?
* Do you use it on any of the exterior panels?
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2019 11:22 pm
I have used a siphon style gun in the past then a friend gave me this Central Pneumatic pressure blaster.
IMGP0007.JPG


I am using crushed glass for media that I get from eBay. Bought the 40-70 grit the first couple of times but recently ordered the 20-40 grit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUAbrasives-N ... 1438.l2649

There are a couple of high wear items, one being the ceramic tips for the blaster. I like using the 3/32" diameter tips but they wear to 1/4" in about an hour and if you don't change them will wear through the side. I get them in packs of 10. The other is the plastic window in the Harbor Freight Hood.
IMGP0009.JPG


I bought a package of 25 of them and glad I did. I wear my respirator under the hood but the plastic window still fogs up from moisture if the humidity is high. Also the outside gets pitted/scratched very quickly if you're not careful and soon you cannot see.

Put some plastic sheeting down in hard to clean areas.
IMGP0008.JPG


Because of the weather I had to move operations inside. I know some will freak out to see me blasting in my spray booth but it's not the first time and a good cleaning before painting is a must anyway.

I recycle the media until it gets very fine and dusty. With the fans blowing the dust out the door the amount of media reclaimed slowly goes down.

I had to buy a plastic funnel since the blaster didn't come with one. Took the small screen out and put a large piece of #16 SS mesh in to speed up the refilling process.
IMGP0010.JPG


Sweep it up into a pile and then scoop into the funnel.
IMGP0011.JPG


It's a lot of work but when cleaning uneven surfaces it is much faster than any other methods I have tried.

I took just under an hour of blasting for this section. Smooth areas go much quicker.
Left Inner Fender.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 9:25 am
Progress pictures:
Media Blasting Progess.JPG

Media Blasting Progress 1.JPG


Started working on the inside firewall and under dash areas but had to stop and remove the seam sealer and old adhesive. A propane torch and chisel work well for this.
Media Blasting Progress 2.JPG


Once I started removing the seam sealer I decided to do the whole interior and trunk area:
Seam Sealer Removal.JPG


Now to clean up the mess and get back to blasting. The one blessing in replacing the floor pans is that I do not have to blast them. :goodjob:
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 4:03 pm
OldFatBald wrote:Soooo, another rookie question; how are you guys blasting those areas at home?

* Are you using one of those hand held "Speed Blasters"?

And if so,

* What media?
* How do you clean up any mess - media, blasted paint etc?
* Do you use it on any of the exterior panels?


I am using the same Pressure pot Blaster 68 is using, Mine is highly modified from repairs and modifications from heavy use and abuse. Gone is the Deadman valve added a Ball valve instead, Gone are original hoses and cheap fittings at bottom, Also cheap frame and wheels are gone Tank has been welded to Small hand Truck as well.
also I still currently use the same ceramic tips but plan to modify with Carbide Tips soon, They last forever unlike the Ceramic that wears incredibly fast as Jim said.
One modification I do like that I added is A Regulator to control the Air Pressure I blast at.
I also Use Crushed Glass for media, I like the really Fine media material myself.

No I do not use it on exterior panels at all, Don't want to chance warping exterior panels.
I use 8 inch Black 3M stripping pads Or Heat with Razors Like Jim on all exterior panels.

The Car is looking really Good Jim
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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