1968 Plymouth GTX

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 5:55 pm
Dennis,

I also got rid of the Deadman valve after fighting with it for a couple of days. Not only wears the tips out but also the metal plate you hope to stop the media with.

Since I recycle the glass a few times it ends up getting very fine and powdery. So I am going to experiment with the coarser grit once I use up what I have.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 9:52 pm
I wish I could recycle my media But I am blasting outdoors I started to build a Blast booth Put in a Cement pad. But that's as far as I got.
Some day i will start on it again but it's pretty far down on my Priority list right now.
I started with a Big blue Tarp and the wind out here got it.

,
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 10:16 am
Still blasting metal when I get some time to work on the car.
The 20/40 grit crushed glass is a little too coarse at first. It does break down though and about the third recycle begins to work very well. I plan to order the 40/70 grit from now on though.

Firewall looks to be very solid:
Firewall inside right.JPG


Just to see what the heavily rusted passengers floor pan looks like I blasted away the heavy flakes. As they came off more and more holes appeared. A little hard to see in the picture:
Passenger floor swiss cheese.JPG


Worked my way down the door jamb and too the pans under the rear seat. This area seems to be quite solid as well:
Passenger door jamb.JPG


The big debate I am having right now is on whether to remove the quarter panels and see what kind of rust is hidden there.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:13 am
There is going to be Rust back there for sure BUT you should be able too see how bad it is by looking down between the where the rear window was this allows you to see how bad or heavy it is in front of the wheel well as far as whats under the Trunk drop off there should be Plugs you can pull and get in there with a Cheap bore scope from harbor fright OR one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/USB-Borescope-En ... 7488&psc=1

I used one last week at work instead of an expensive Aircraft engine Bore scope I was Very impressed with it especially for the price! lets you get in there and see things without tearing something apart. the company that makes them has several different models to chose from.

Just me but if its not as bad as the floors I would just treat them with Phosphoric acid and coat with epoxy after cleaning I know the subject is taboo with you BUT When is deep enough deep enough? The car does have a certain Dollar value attached to it when completed no matter how much and time and money is invested you know this.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:50 pm
Had to take a break and rebuild the hydraulic lift cover assembly on my 1970 Ford 3500 tractor.

Finished blasting the outside of the car:
Quarter Panel Right Stripped.JPG


Started cutting out the rust and welding in patches.
Quarter Panel Left Patch.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2019 10:53 pm
I started welding again myself I am a bit out o practice taking more than a couple coupons to get back into it, The Tig is very unforgiving Practice practice practice.
Its been a good long time since I sat there and laid a bunch o beads. Not touching car till I am back too 100% again.

On a Side note I played with some Silicon Bronze Tig rod Butt welding some coupons.
very strong and easy to ork with I be using it a lot more often, very strong very forgiving.
strength is almost as strong as regular ER70 Rod.

You should try some
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2019 1:14 pm
Dennis,
Is this the material you are talking about?
Welding Material Unknown.JPG


It seems I am a bit out of practice on my welding but still a vast improvement over what was there.
Sailpanel Structure Patch Left.JPG


Applied some epoxy primer to protect the metal under the quarter panel area before installing the patch.
Sailpanel Structure Patch Epoxied 1.JPG


Fabricated and welded in the quarter panel patch.
Quarter Panel Left upper.JPG


Starting on the other side now:
Sailpanel Structure Patch Right.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2019 4:48 pm
I know I have said it more than once, but that is sooooo impressive!
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 6:11 am
Man, that's going to be a NICE CAR. Very good work. Looking forward to following your updates along the way.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2019 9:36 pm
Thanks for the kind words guys.

Here is the patch fabricated next to the old metal for the center section over passenger's door.
Roof Structure Center Patch 1.JPG

Roof Structure Center Patch.JPG


I forgot to take pictures of the cut out area and back side of patches in primer before the installation:
Roof Structure Center Patch Welded.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31
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