1968 Plymouth GTX

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 7:02 am
Still hoping you put it in in one piece.
Its worth the extra effort in my opinion, You metal skills really are getting better Nice work on the window corners!

Wish you had a Tig
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 8:33 am
I am going to try putting the way that guy did it, except I don't see the need to remove the rear cross bracing. Maybe I will when I get to installing it?

Already started drilling out the spot welds on the tail panel.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 11:30 am
I started using regular drill bits for spot welds instead of expensive spot weld cutters, I also have been using Ball type Hi speed files to cut through them as well.
That hole punch deal makes repairing the removed panels holes very easy. Just time consuming.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2022 6:05 pm
Shot epoxy primer on the truck floor supports and frame rails.
Trunk Floor Supports.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 10:01 pm
Got the trunk floor pan into place today and kept it in one piece.
I learned a few things along the way and hope they might help some others.

First, you have to drill out all the spot welds along the lower portion and ends of the tail panel. You will be bending this out almost horizontal before your done.

Second, you will need to raise the rear of the car high enough to get the front edge of the floor pan under the tail panel. I was able to do this on my jack stands by raising them about 6".

Next, you want to make sure you have all your spot weld holes drilled, especially where the pan and trunk floor extensions weld up. You will notice in this first picture how far I got before I realized I hadn't drilled the holes yet. Fortunately I was able to drill them with the panel in this position. Notice I clamped it into place while drilling.

Install Floor Pan 1.JPG


I used a couple of small pieces of 2x4 to hold the tail panel open but found they only worked to get the above position. From here I would work one side at a time by bending the tail panel with one hand while pushing the floor pan up an inch or two. Eventually I got to this stage where the front edge cleared the rear deck panel supports and is resting against the trunk lid hinge brackets.

Install Floor Pan 2.JPG


From here on out, I would push on the pan with my legs while lifting the tail panel with my hands high enough to let the panel move forward.
Eventually I got it into place and started realizing how many spot welds were staring back at me. LOL

New Pan in place.JPG


Here's how far the tail panel was bent.

Tail Panel Bent.JPG


I carefully bent it back down and then using vise grips and a body hammer got it back into fairly good shape. I'll work on it more when I start welding everything into place.

Reshaping tail panel.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2022 6:49 am
How about a tool head's up? I've always hated drilling spot welds. Used the Blair, the solid carbide, new drill bits. Either they don't last, or don't work. For another project, I bought these, and found out how great they work for spot welds, as well as just drilling nice clean large holes! Not too expensive, either!
https://www.amazon.com/Hougen-11075-Rot ... _d_rp_73_t

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2022 8:58 am
chopolds wrote:How about a tool head's up? I've always hated drilling spot welds. Used the Blair, the solid carbide, new drill bits. Either they don't last, or don't work. For another project, I bought these, and found out how great they work for spot welds, as well as just drilling nice clean large holes! Not too expensive, either!
https://www.amazon.com/Hougen-11075-Rot ... _d_rp_73_t


Thanks, I have tried about everything else as well. The Blair works the best but often hard to get started if the weld isn't perfectly flat, they get dull fairly quickly, and the cutter tips are over $10 each.

I have 5 cutter tips left from my recent order so once those are gone I give the Hougen cutters a try, plus they are made in the USA. :goodjob:
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2022 9:08 am
Just an FYI. When doing the roof skin, I found one of the support rail corners hadn't been welded from the factory.

Yesterday I discovered the same thing on the left hinge support brackets for the trunk lid where it attaches to the rear window support area. There were two places that looked like spot welds but had never fully penetrated and bonded with the rear of the bracket. The other side was welded solidly in those two spots.

After taking several measurements I found it was nearly 1/2" out of position. The trunk lid spring rods and the welds at the rear of the bracket on the deck filler panel were all that was holding it in place.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2022 8:09 am
Nice Job
I am wondering why bend that one panel up ? couldn't it be removed?
But Project looks like its coming along very Nicely!!!!

I too have tried many different types of spot weld cutters I liked the Snap on ones best but being made of Carbide they were expensive and Brittle, again if your not on the weld perfectly square the cutter will break.

I gave up using them and just use Solid Cobalt drill bits NOT THE ONES FROME HOMEDEPOT! But actual real solid Professional grade solid Cobalt drill bits from Pro supply houses they are not cheap hi speed steel and like I said a couple small Round Hi speed files mounted in a Die grinder.

Round Ball type Hi speed file 1510C on chart on left side available in many different sizes.
https://www.usatco.com/item/BALL+SHAPE- ... ary-Files/

Drill Bits and more
https://www.panamericantool.com/cobalt- ... sizes.html

Round Hi speed files
https://www.panamericantool.com/carbide ... rs-sd.html

These are REAL professional grade tools Not the Junk you get at Home depot or other cheap Box stores their is a very Big difference in the quality of a drill bit that dulls out after one use and one thats good for Hundreds of holes in the most demanding metals.
These can also be resharpened if you can find some one that really knows how to sharpen drill bits If you find a company that does a good job sharpening let me know I have a Bucket of very expensive bits that need Help.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2022 2:50 pm
Finally got the trunk floor and rear deck filler panel welding into place.
Sprayed a quick coat of epoxy on it (still wet in the picture) to prevent rusting. We have had a pretty good Monsoon season here and the humidity is at levels I haven't felt in a long time.

Still have some work to do, since I got grinder happy in a couple of spots and being in a hurry, I ran and wrinkled the epoxy it a couple of places.
Trying to get the hang of spraying while my body is contorted and twisted in an effort to reach is my excuse, and I'm sticking to it. LOL

Trunk Floor in Epoxy Primer.JPG


Tail Panel in Epoxy Primer.JPG


Trunk Floor Inside.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31
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