Introduction - TR6 Restoration

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 8:23 pm
Let those runs cure really well before you attempt to remove them or you will pull a chunk of clear out all the way down to the base coat. Ask me how I know. :neutral:
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 8:29 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Let those runs cure really well before you attempt to remove them or you will pull a chunk of clear out all the way down to the base coat. Ask me how I know. :neutral:


That brings up another question. When is the right time to sand and polish? I've read as long as possible, weeks, give it a couple of days, etc. I'd like to knock out the couple of small visible areas on the tub, so I can put it back on the chassis, but the loose panels aren't going back on the tub until most of the car is driving and stopping on its own. No real reason to risk scratching the body panels.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 9:47 am
Depends largely upon the brand and kind of clear you used.

Generally you can cut and buff the next day but some clears are too soft to do so. Try pushing your thumb nail into the clear to see if you can make an indent. If so let it set longer. Putting the car outside in the sunshine will speed up the curing process.

The Euro clears can get pretty hard after a couple of days. I actually prefer to buff clear in this condition since it is done shrinking and although more difficult to cut and buff it will look great for years to come.

Here's the runs I put on my signature car just to give you hope:
P1010001.JPG


I was able to sand these out and buff without shooting more clear coat:
Right Rear Quarter.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 6:35 pm
A much more positive day today. I took some time off from WFH to run some errands and get out of the house. I'm calling it a mental health break, that seems to be all the rage with my younger coworkers :-) Yesterday's lesson, don't paint when already wound up.

Anyways, BC laid down much better than yesterday, having a functional vent, makes it easier :-) Clear continues to have less orange peel in it as I progress. I got a very thin run on the top of one one fender. That one should come pretty easily.

And thanks to Mr. Coronet for showing some before and after on a CC run. That's positive news that I should be able to save these.

Just the bonnet and boot left. I picked up some more BC today, but I'm hoping to get by without having to buy another full gallon of clear. It's going to be very very close.

And my interior samples came from Skinner in England. This will be the most expensive purchase in the project, so I need to chose wisely.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 7:45 pm
I'm guessing you are still using that small air compressor.
Definitely need a good volume of air to the gun so it operates correctly.

Tell me again what gun you are using and the tip size for spraying clear.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 7:51 pm
I bought a new 60 gallon, 5 HP IR, 100% duty cycle compressor before starting this project. It's not close to running continuously. The weakness in the air supply is the cheap regulator I think. I'm guessing I'm getting a lot of pressure drop through the regulator with the gun wide open. It would be interesting to see a pressure loss chart for the desiccant snake as well.

I'm shooting with a Devilbiss FLG4 with a 1.3 tip.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 10:23 pm
That gun needs 13 CFM in order to atomize the paint correctly. You need to be sure your compressor puts out that much first.

If it does, then you need to be sure you don't have choke points restricting the volume of air.

Think of it as a water flowing through a hose. If you have a 3/4" diameter hose MORE water is flowing through it than through a 1/2" diameter hose at any given pressure.

Now if you put your finger over the end of the hose, the pressure increases because of the restriction but the volume of water getting through is reduced.

This is why we use hi-flow hose fittings, particular filtration systems and regulators in our air supply systems. It is to get as much volume of air to the gun as possible.

Once you get the proper amount of air supplied to the gun it will improve it's performance and be much easier to dial in and get a great finish with.
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 7:04 am
While it's painfully obvious I don't have a background in automotive body work, I'm comfortable with the engineering behind air flow. It's been years since I've used my Mechanical Engineering degree (moved into Project Management) but I still hold a PE registration in a few states.

The IR compressor is rated for 14.1 CFM at 90 psig, and 100% duty operation. I'm using 3/8 hose and high flow fittings. I suspect my largest flow restriction is the cheap regulator I'm using. But good engineering data in pretty lacking in the low end of the market, so tough to say exactly how much of a restriction it is.

Thankfully, assuming, I can repair the current CC runs, I'm down to my last two panels to paint. And I can then get back to the wrenching phase of this project, which will be a relief.

Thanks for coming along side me during the project!

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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 10:07 am
Experience has taught me that once you complete a restoration project you will be doing another one sooner than you think. :wink:
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2020 10:18 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Experience has taught me that once you complete a restoration project you will be doing another one sooner than you think. :wink:


This is the last restoration for a bit. I'm already in clear violation of the wife's one in / one policy. The track car is currently off-site in the enclosed trailer, so I think I'm still in compliance even if on a technicality :-) And that car isn't insured, so clearly shouldn't count.

After this is done, I've got an S52 engine waiting to go in the BMW track car this winter., along with all the associated while I am in there projects. I'll probably go ahead and pull the roll bar thats in it now, and drop it off at a cage shop. And lets not even talk about the paint job on that thing. The clear coat was peeling off in sheets on the roof, so I wrapped the roof. Because, well track car....

The next project will be a vintage race car, an old D Sports Racer, H Mod car or something along those lines.

And since I measured whats left for clear coat this morning and realized it's not enough to shoot the last two panels, I'm stuck until the shop orders another gallon of this. I certainly don't want to risk shooting something else. That means it's a yard work weekend. Wife probably dumped some out when I wasn't looking.
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