Thanks for the wealth of info! Let me answer one at a time:
Doright wrote:Is the Door Striker in good condition? they do wear and are also adjustable.
They are good and adjusted them with the rest of the door. They are adjusted in/out to split the difference so the top of the door is in 1/16" and the bottom is out 1/16"
Doright wrote:Also Door Lock latch Mechanisms wear out causing some slop.
They seem ok
Doright wrote:The Door hinge is welded on to the Door yes BUT the body side is replaceable and it is possible for one or both upper or lower to be Bent or tweaked. (Hint)
Checked the hinges and they are good and flat and straight
The Door itself could also be Twisted as well Fox Body Doors are not the strongest doors in the world pretty light actually and easily twisted. The Doors are Also are known for Cracking. Look for cracks at rear of door at base of window frame and around door latch mechanism.
Now this could be the case - the driver door was sort of pushed in along the bottom about 3" back from the front of the door for a length of about 6-8" right where a jack stand might sit if you pulled it out from under the car. I'll bet the PO lowered the car with the door open and the jack stand caught the bottom of the door and bent the door at the bottom and tweaked it enough to cause the alignment issue I'm seeing. Too far into this project to replace the door now so I'll just try to make the best of it.
I am having to Weld up my Sons Fox Body now the Unibody under both seats near the Pinch welds on both sides of the car and one in the Drive shaft Tunnel. each crack is about 3 inches long!
Thanks for this tip, I'll be looking for cracks
Fairly common in Fox's that have seen some Hard driving and don't Have good Sub frame connectors. You may want to look for these while your doing all this work to yours Not many of the Old Fox body's were pampered treasures.
And if your son plans ANY sort of Hard spirited driving I strongly suggest adding Sub frame connectors!
The previous owner had installed subframe connectors but I'll double check the welds on them
Look for cracks in A Pillars, Floors under Seats near rocker panels, Floor panel pulling away from rocker boxes inside car and under the car! Floor Tunnel for cracks near seat belt anchors AND for Buckling, whole Fire wall, Clutch mechanism area all braces and attachment places, Upper Rocker panels, Torq boxes, upper 4 link Mounts where they attach to body.
Thanks, will definitely be looking for cracks in these areas
I also suggest Going to a Hydraulic clutch assembly if its a Manual car, the Cable clutch is a Pain and the mounts crack, plastic pieces break.
We just did this right before we stripped it down for paint. What a difference! We went with the McCleod hydraulic M/C and hydraulic throwout bearing. It's great!
Doright wrote:On My sons Fox After we get the Floors welded up tomorrow we are going to install sub frame connectors, I will be fully welding these in. We will be doing another set inside the car soon with an 8 point cage & Mini tubs as well. Just installed a stroked out hi compression 351w in it with electronic fuel injection with 2 inch headers! Dual disk clutch with his 5 speed But a Jerico 4 speed will be going in once he finds the funds for a decent scatter shield bell housing, we are currently just getting his to all go together and to make it run and drive and then will blow it all apart for Paint later that will be when the cage and mini tubs will go in.
This sounds like an awesome project! Would love to see your progress pics. Are you writing it up on another site?
Thanks for the great advice and info