Dodge Charger Truck Build

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 12:09 pm
That looks amazing
I’m looking forward to your debrief or whatever you are considering regarding your turbine.



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 3:53 pm
68, yeah, I'd probably be at about that, maybe just a little less. I have a tendency to use a little less than what they say, do a few spray outs, and adjust from there.
And yes, I will do a full description of all the products used in the wing build right here. I'm then going to move over to the tool section and try and give my observations about working with turbine systems on projects like this. I think you'll find some things of interest that maybe even I was not expecting on how I shot this.....
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 5:30 pm
So TA DA..... I am done.....so done...... and of course when I need it where the hell is the sun.... I did my best to capture some sun in these pic.s but it was just having none of that. What you will see is that I got the pearl mix right on and a really nice just barely above matte glow going on..... Really like the look. My next entry on here will break down products, methodology that I think works with links, and probably some tips on things to avoid. I'm then going over to tools with some tips for guys shooting turbines.
Attachments
IMG_20210316_231949787.jpg
This is just a pic. of the underneath of the flange I had made. I used a combination of these radical pitched stainless wood screw installed at an angle. When this is flipped over these act as "cleats" which I sealed down to the bed top with construction grade black polyurethane caulk. The bed cover rails then covered over the topside of this flange and screws went down through that. I was able to establish tension both down and in that way.
IMG_20210317_134851167_HDR.jpg
Well, yes, I do think you should try and build stuff yourself.....
IMG_20210317_134852224_HDR.jpg
Again, sun ducks under a cloud......
IMG_20210317_134658101_HDR.jpg
I especially like the rear off axis look....
IMG_20210317_134643151_HDR.jpg
The sun was just having no part of being on the bling side....
IMG_20210317_134559030_HDR.jpg
Makes for nice muscular profile...
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 6:38 pm
Looks great. That whole car/truck thing is incredible, especially when you consider how fast you made this happen. :goodjob:
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 9:48 pm
Thanks....yeah, I was kind of surprised on this build as well. Back in the good ol' days we were looking at 1 to 3 years on most builds. The only kit cars you could hope to build this fast were Stage 3 kits or ones where the bodies were already "rolling chassis." I would definitely do another one of Mark's kits. We keep talking about the Jeep. As far as truck kits this is the only other one I was considering when I settled on the charger build.....
http://www.1939studebaker.com/Album-WIL ... age-2.html
Because the kit ain't cheap you end up getting into significant money fast. I'd think you would be at $20,000 minimum doing a used LS engine conversion on the S 10.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 10:40 pm
Okay, so I promised some information for you on this composite build..... First....comments and ideas about working with carbon fiber or a carbon fiber/Kevlar blend. There are many sources for these fabrics out there....I ended up feeling these guys had a decent product at good pricing...... https://compositeenvisions.com/
If you are going to make simple patterns like interior panels or even as something like my wing here you can consider just doing it "open lay up" style. You are basically using some type of material as your blank (I used pink foam sheeting from Home Depot) and are going to lay your composite over that. You will get the cloth material to stick down by using this stuff.....
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-H ... B000HBNU9K
Yes, that is headliner glue. Spray the surface you want to glue it to and let it sit for about 5 minutes. If you only apply the glue to ONE surface you can still slightly pull back and reposition as needed. Something I also used to help me position the fabric was upholstery needles like these..... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0893 ... UTF8&psc=1
The underlying foam easily allow the needle to penetrate the cloth and batten it down in spots. Now you need to cut your composite. The carbon fiber/Kevlar blend is the worst to cut in my opinion. If you think you are going to use sharp scissors you are going to be mad because you'll destroy a lot of fabric... At least buy these.....https://www.harborfreight.com/4v-lithiu ... 56192.html
Yeah, I know, Harbor Freight....you can go ahead and pay $200 for them as well and I'm telling you they are almost identical to these. They will cut this stuff.
Okay, so are we putting this fabric down with....My favorite epoxy for the wet-out is still Pro Marine's 521 epoxy. It is very reasonably priced, comes with metering pumps, is available in slow and fast version and is just great when combined with cheap throwaway brushes..... https://promarinesupplies.com/521-marin ... oxy-resin/
Did you notice I said brushes....no rollers. If you try to use say something like those spiked or ridged rollers that you use for working fiberglass matt or cloth you'll ruin your project. Just get the fabric thoroughly wetted out and let it dry in a 74 to 78 degree room or at least get some infra red heat on it. I would also let it sit for about 10 minutes and pass a heat gun over the entire layup. This should force any micro bubbles to the top. If you are going to do another layer of cloth simply go to the glue tack again and get everything in place for another soaking of 521. When that was thoroughly cured I did a light 120 grit sanding (there is still a lot of grippy texture left in the cloth at this point) and consider switching over to a thicker pour style 1 to 1 epoxy. This is the one I settled on because of it's UV stability..... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YY ... UTF8&psc=1
If you are going to building with that I would suggest doing your mixing in these cups....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0815 ... UTF8&psc=1
Those cups are narrow and deep. You can easily take a sharpie and mark your pour levels on them. Because they are deep you can actually set of the exothermic reaction somewhat after pouring by just waiting before you pour. Mix the stuff by paddling not whipping and do it for 5 to 8 minutes. After that I would let it sit for another 10 before pouring. Now keep in mind when you use this stuff it needs to be left alone undisturbed and again kept in a warm room for at least 24 hours. Now a few times here I did do "wet on wet" pours. This involves pouring over a tacky surface so you get complete chemcial bonding of the layers. MAS epoxies rule of thumb is that if a drying epoxy is sandable then you will not get a wet on wet bond. So if you are layering mechanically I would do 80 to 100 grit sanding between layers. Remember guys, this ain't automotive clear so generally those scratches are filled in by the high solids epoxy.
So shaping epoxy isn't rocket science. It is self guide coating and will show you it's low spots as bright glossy. If you have a surface flat/even level with just a few shiny spots then just brush them in with a small batch of epoxy and sand back level. As far as getting off excess epoxy I would let it run on over the Tuck tape. Buy the "easy tear" variety like this.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088Q ... UTF8&psc=1 Now this stuff is some kind of unearthly tape. First, always have a fabric pad handy so you can push the tape against it and peel it off to somewhat reduce it's holding power. You can easily just nick it with a knife or razor blade to tear it. Now once it is in place it is very hard to take off. If epoxy flows over on it try and remove the epoxy once it has dried for 5 to 6 hours. YOU WILL have a tape residue from this stuff which alcohol will help remove, however it was just easier to use 400 grit on an air sander for me.
So now you've built your epoxy to your final level and everything look even and glossy. Now you can sand to 400 all over and you are ready to move into base/clear. Obviously is you are wanting to see that beautiful fabric well clear will be enough. If it was Tamco I would do the 2104 Euro in about 3 coats. The thing will look like glass. You will notice I did use Jet Black to black out my edges. Even if the edges fold properly I think the pattern just looks to busy at the edges. It takes a matter of minutes to mix up some of that black and fade your edges out. By doing that with my build I got the edges to "glow" more because the pearl was over true black.
Bottom line....an opinion.....if you are going to get into any parts that are indeed more complex that what I did I would go vacuum bagging at minimum and consider the infusion method as well. You can buy a straight vacuum pump or consider buying a vacuum venturi adapter system for your compressor. I'm probably going to go that route later this year..... Here is what I am talking about.....
https://www.fibreglast.com/product/Vacu ... it_02227_A
SAFETY- Carbon fiber and Kevlar are both sharp fabrics and epoxies can emit pretty noxious gasses as they cure. I would just bite the bullet and wear a full carbon cart respirator for all of the operations concerning this stuff. Throwaway powderless gloves work pretty good. Just watch those fabrics after they have hardened with epoxy, they will cut your flesh fast.....
So that's about it. I'm going to go over to tools in a day or so and talk about some turbine spray tips and opinions on saving some bucks on equipment and such.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2021 9:30 am
Thanks, DarrelK! I actually bought, and used Tamco's intercoat on the firewall of my Olds project. Also used their coco brown pearl in the crazy mix I did to get "my" color! I've got their Euro Clear, as well for the body!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2021 1:24 pm
I like Tamco's stuff. I order it and it is here in a matter of days almost like it's coming from Prime. Bob, has been helpful on the tech. side of things when I needed it. I've tried 4 of the clears, the high build epoxy, jet black base, and of course, the intercoat. No stinkers so far.... Unfortunately, all of my local suppliers have been drying up/moving from our area. Also seems like they would rather deal with the production shops rather than the garage guys like us. Can't blame them, they are in business to profit, not babysit us...... Tamco fills the void for me.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 5:22 pm
So I'm just working some small stuff now here and there. When we initially were planning paint on the truck I considered just doing the outside mirror shells in flat black, looked into carbon fiber vinyl wrap, and even considered doing them in a faux carbon fiber effect. We just settled on doing them like the body color. So when I was going through ebay to get ideas for the carbon fiber on the wing I ran into "outside mirror shell covers." I found them in black and then.....hmmm, I found ones that were the black, then hydro dipped in a fine carbon fiber pattern. They were cheaper than anything I could make and a pretty great pattern that I knew would work well with the chameleon pearl..... Take a look....
Attachments
IMG_20210325_162231874.jpg
So this is how they look right out of the box. Nice dip pattern and decent clear coat too work off of....not to thick...
IMG_20210327_141530827.jpg
This is all done in Tamco, 1 coat of intercoat, halo black effect on edges, 1 more intercoat clear, intercoat with chameleon pearl added, and 3 coats of matte clear...
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2021 7:38 am
Details making it better all the time!
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