Sweet. Love the color shift.

The color shift is crazy. And something you can't see is the tiny pinpoints of colored pearls dancing around as you move. Can't wait to get it out at night under some street lights....should be spooky fun, ha, ha.....

On to the bed liner today. Riley and I got in almost a full 8 hour day on this together. Even did some of our furniture chores as well. So I just ended up coming back to UPOL Raptor for just about every feature I wanted in a bedliner. We degreased all the aluminum and machine sanded in an 80 grit scratch surface on everything. Now the last time I did bedliner I did a combo of the old shutz gun and some minor trim work with a mini roller and throwaway brushes. I had not used this "new to me" system which just works right out of their bottles. Man, this is stupid easy guys... open the bottle, throw in hardener to the line, shake for 2 minutes, and attach the shutz style head. How hard is that? I saw a few videos where guys were up in the 70 to 80 psi range for the results I was wanting. Set the gun with full trigger pull for 70 psi and we were off. I did the entire interior bed, the upper full length top fender guards, the inside of the tailgate, the lower rocker panels from tire to tire, and the lower nose chin spoilers in about 30 minutes. Temps were so warm we gave it about 10 minutes and started the whole chain again. Second coat is like a "fill in" coat and went on in more like 20 minutes.
The texture is exactly what I wanted as I held the gun out at about 2 feet from the surface....check out the pics. I'll start doing some reassembly tomorrow night....

Upol Raptor is what I use as well.
The kits have everything you need and it is pretty much fool proof if I can do it.

Yeah, I kind of understand now why the off road crowd are doing their entire vehicles in it. I mean, if you had any kind of brush hauler or rock crawler you could easily hose those things down as well as fix battle scars....

Well, I just could not drift off to sleep last night so I put all this back together.....

DarrelK wrote:I'll know about the "right" part when I roll it out in the sun tomorrow.....

Hi Darrel, the truck looks stunning. I'm new around here and quite new to autobody. I'm crazy about DYIing - that's how I got into this - I plan to paint my slightly rusting daily driver for now, maybe project cars in the future.

What you said there made me wonder - how do you move the car out for every photo session? You'd be removing masking and re-doing it every single time: sounds painful .

DarrelK wrote:I have worked with http://www.paintwithpearl.com for about 12 years or so. I buy samples, I make notes, and do sprayouts. I now like using those speed shapes especially when getting into these pearls and micronic flakes.

Before getting on this forum, I was wondering: since I wanna re-spray, wouldn't it be nice to play with color since I'm going to spend that moneh. Those chameleons and candies look awesome.

How does this work: you buy the paint as a base color and choose the pigment? What was the ratio in your case? Did you use Tamco paints as well (side Q: they are based on BASF resins as far as I read, right?)?

Andrei

Hi, Andrei,
Well, on the picture sessions we do indeed unmask each time. Honestly though....I use the best tape and this stuff.... PlazMask Pre-Taped Masking Film, 5-Feet X 65-Feet. Go here.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD ... UTF8&psc=1
With this system one guy can tape out and mask the truck in about 45 minutes. Just an opinion but just leaving mask on through several shoot processes can be a very bad thing. You will start getting build up that can be disastrous in your process.

And the color thing is easy... First, go to... http://www.paintwithpearl.com You will see a LOT of special effects. The idea is they mix with clear base coat (this will be called an intercoat clear). I ended up doing about 1/2 bag of the chameleon per quart of the Tamco 895 mixed intercoat. IMPORTANT.... You are doing 1 to 1 to make the Intercoat with it's reducer. Put your pearl IN the reducer first and thoroughly mix, THEN add the remaining portion of the 895 Intercoat. Then mix again, and then strain into your gun.

And yes, by the way, I did all Tamco with this build. From high build epoxy primer up through my Matte clear.... Stuff is about the best I've seen at great pricing.

Thanks for the tape tip - never heard of masking buildup issues during my research. I'll dig that further - feel free to detail the topic as I'm sure other green painters would dig the details.

I did check their website when you posted it - great stuff - just didn't get to read much: I have 200 pages open researching a bunch of products from life stuff. And in parallel doing a bit of painting research for next year. For this year I might do some rust correction and spray some Tamco primer+clear underneath, we'll see.

Clear base-coat? Is that actual clear that you designate as such or a special type of clear meant for these pigments? On the car, do you have just the clear+pigment on the primer OR you need to spray some base opaque paint to hide the black primer? I would assume the later because it seems the black would overpower just some clear+pigment.

Btw, did you get to use both their 5311 and 700 primers?

Clear base coat is just that....the same basecoat formula you would usually get from that supplier less the pigment/dye/color portion. Everybody that makes paint will have this type of product for example PPG has their 500, HOK has the 100 and 150, etc. Tamco's is that 895. And no, with my truck I found the black high build primer to be perfect for my intercoat/pearl application. I had done a few samples just to check that. Those Paint With Pearl Chameleons are powerful and start covering/building fast. And no I've only used their 700 epoxy high build. They are moving that product over to their Marine paint division, by the way.