Dodge Charger Truck Build

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 2:34 pm
If I understood you well, I find it amazing that that beautiful color comes from just a few grams of pigment against black.

Did you spray the 700 with gravity? if yes, what nozzle size and ratios? Is it that finicky as the company says? I did latex/acrylic paints with a 2.5 mm tip/distilled water/floetrol (good results too) - after that, nothing really scares me, I think.

Andrei

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 3:25 pm
Yep, you just wouldn't think those itsy bitsy pearl things would do that but it's like....spray....spray.....POOF!, massive color explosion. Yes, I did spray it with a gravity gun however I had just finished up building my new 6 stage turbine system with the addition of my new Sprayfine turbine gun. I used a 1.8 tip size which I found to be great. I don't quite get the "finicky" portion of the comments on that epoxy. It is light years ahead of spraying something like SlickSand, Featherfill, etc. You can sand it the next day, next week , or next year. It doesn't matter and is self guide coating in black.... It gets nice and hard and just powders up when you start blocking. My grandson said it was one of the easiest sanding primers he had ever worked with....
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2020 6:00 pm
So I took my new "truck" to a few judged/non judged show/cruises this weekend. It is pretty easy to do the social distancing thing with cars and bikes. Man people have really been couped up I guess. Today we had almost 200 cars at a show. I picked up my first award which I'm happy with. There were at least two other trucks with bi-flop paints that REALLY needed some work. In my opinion their high gloss was actually making their color changes kind of "smeary." You could see mine just "glow" all the way across the parking lot.
So onward and upward this week. I am going to do phase 1 of the interior soundproof/build out. Then we are on to building my rigid bed shell. Saw several examples today of how NOT to build it so I'm good.
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And we thank all of you for the opinons/support
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2020 8:41 pm
So is that the "also participated trophy" or does it have a name? :wink:
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 8:33 am
Nope, not a participation one....the American Legion guys judged their picks for the day. I try to get to VFW, American Legion, and other "cause" type shows. We even have a "dog show" for the local Humane Society. Biggest bummer with this pandemic thing was the large (1000+ cars) Make a Wish show got cancelled. Well, of course, the GoodGuys show got killed.... One of the aspects I like about our local cruises is that you don't just get something for showing up. It pisses off a lot of guys with either newer cars with lots of chrome screws and such or the "it's a rat rod you know" crowd. One of my favorite types of cruise in is The People's Choice where only the people waking into the show get a ballot to fill out. You really do find out what people "like."
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 1:29 pm
Congratulations it was well deserved.

I have never entered anything in a car show myself but some of the vehicles I've done for others have been. So, pardon my ignorance on the trophy thing. I thought they had different categories like owner restored, custom, rat-rod, best in show, etc.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 4:23 pm
Actually, it's kind of crazy thing with what's a Car Show, Cruise-in, Hang-out, etc. I've gone to simple cruise-ins where guys with hats and clipboards were doing everything short of an NHRA inspection on cars using a 200 point system to get this.... We go to about a 200 car show and the guys says.... "I am not doing trophies or awards today." "Myself and my wife are going to pick the 20 cars we like the best and you each get a $100 bill..... Some cruise-ins are by makes....best mopar. best chevy. best olds, etc. Some go by years....best 1920 and older, best 1921 through 1940, and on and on. We just had a big Pontiac regional show which again broke down Firebirds, Trans Ams, Fieros, etc. and by years within those groups.

You know....you should get out to some shows....your work would be greatly appreciated I'm sure. When I get my tonneau built I'll be making a "story board" that will fit on the length of the bed showing how the car was built into the truck. This inspires younger people and brings back a lot of "build memories" for the guys that did lead sleds, chop/channel work,etc. It's kind of cool out there right now....car guys have been bored out of their minds since this covid thing hit. They are bringing the big guns for some of these shows. I mean like stuff you'd see going to Barrett Jackson......
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 7:20 pm
DarrelK wrote:I used a 1.8 tip size which I found to be great.

That's awesome! At normal reduction? All the guys at Tamco be like - you need a 2.5 tip or above ... I got one but anyway, them freaking out, got me all freaked out too.

DarrelK wrote:It is light years ahead of spraying something like SlickSand, Featherfill, etc. You can sand it the next day, next week , or next year. It doesn't matter and is self guide coating in black.... It gets nice and hard and just powders up when you start blocking. My grandson said it was one of the easiest sanding primers he had ever worked with....


Big relief. Not sure if I'm gonna work now or next spring but I'll try a Tamco primer no matter what. Will prob share when I do the work.

You bring in poly fillers in the comparison, but if you were to offer your thoughts on a "vs urethane" primers - what would you say? I know you haven't tried 5311, but leaving aside the fact that it has the same rust encapsulating formula, what's the advantage of epoxy? So far I got more flexibility (which increases its life technically??) and better adhesion? While for urethane primers they're faster to work with - eg 53xx can be sanded within 1h form application and one could fix a ding the same day and be done with a customer. Are these descriptions something which ring true in your experience? Is there a general numbers of years attribute to how many years an urethane primer holds vs an epoxy (like urethane will start to peel after 10 years and epoxy will last up to 25 years - just making up numbers as an example, I'm not even sure if you can put things in perspective like that, again I'm new to selecting automotive paint products)?

Congrats on the win!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2020 10:10 pm
Yes, I used a 1.8 at normal reduction and that was with the turbine system which in theory should have required more reduction than most normal gun systems. Honestly, I don't see how this stuff is hard to use at all. The guy that works for me is also working on a truck and found it easy to spray and laid down great.
Okay so urethane vs. this high build epoxy.... You cannot get around the fact that you will experience some minor shrinkage with a 2k urethane. We did not experience that at all with this epoxy build primer. It simply went on, we sanded it about a week later or so, and built our base color from there.... Having worked with epoxy resins in our wood restoration business for the last 41 years I can honestly say that for repair work, coatings, etc., they are the most dependable of anything that we work with in those categories. If epoxy had one downfall I would say susceptibility to degradation from sunlight could be one however now most of these formulas have UV protection or are just plain buried in the lower layers of paint...
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 10:41 pm
So the saga of "nobody wants to sell me a custom pick-up bed cover" continues. I contacted 6 of the largest manufacturers of solid, retractable, and foldable covers directly just to hear.... "Well, here is the dealer in your area, contact them and I'm sure they will get you set up." And then, when I contacted those dealers it was...."Hey, you need to call the manufacturer directly for something custom, and I'm sure they will get you set up." And gee, these covers go from like $800 to $3000....seriously nobody wants to make money????

So let's build a cover. I decided on a hardshell type unit using ram/pistons. By carefully studying some in person and at shows and watching a bunch of videos I got it figured out....I'd build a lightweight wood skeleton, then glue and staple 1/4 inch luan board to that, finishing up with ounce and half epoxy compatible mat and marine grade epoxy over the whole thing. Depending on just how stiff this became I could still line it with 3/4 inch pink foam underneath and epoxy/mat that as well. After that's all cured up the idea is to shoot the whole thing with Raptor bedliner, install pistons, and final cam lock. I decided to not put any external type of lock on my tailgate by simply putting heavy duty slam bolts on the inside top. Simple put tailgate up, slam bolts shut, put down bed cover, and turn cam lock key..... poof! bed secure. Oh, and check out the picture of this space age black plastic hinge material I'm using. It is "everything" proof and can support 100 pounds per linear inch! My cover width is 60 inches. So I'll be checking out just how stiff this thing is tomorrow and then going from there.....
Attachments
IMG_20200917_223210000.jpg
This is a 3 inch wide flexible layered polymer hinge material, just over $2 a foot in any length
IMG_20200917_153402633_HDR.jpg
Just the raw wood cover here, bed has a taper toward the back
IMG_20200917_160403957_HDR.jpg
This is the raw mat, if you use epoxy resin make sure your mat is compatible
IMG_20200917_223104239.jpg
This is with the mat/epoxy mix applied, still rolling it out here...
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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