1969 Chevy C10

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.



Fully Engaged
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:17 am
Location: Northeast N.J.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 9:16 pm
Sweet, just checking in and curious.
Are your projects for fun / luv and a little $$$.

I read through the Miata project today and it was impressive.
You seem like you have a bit of a casual following and rep. That gets you as much work as you want.

JT

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 8410
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 11:31 am
I have never sought work or advertised for it.

When people bring me their projects, I tell them right up front that I do not work 40 hours a week in my shop. Might be more like 40 hours a month so if you are in a hurry take it someplace else.

I bill once a month for time and materials, you pay the bill and then decide if we keep going or you take it to someone else.

I have turned away a lot of work lately because I want to get back on my 1968 Plymouth GTX restoration.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



Fully Engaged
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:17 am
Location: Northeast N.J.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 12:10 pm
Cool

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 8410
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 7:21 pm
Had some more ripped metal on the right bed side:
Another Rip in the metal.JPG


After a bunch of work I got it fairly well straightened out.
Bed Right Side Wheel arch repair.JPG


The lower bed behind the wheel well was in terrible condition as can be seen here:
Rear Side Marker Socket.JPG


This took a tremendous amount of hammering to get it even close. I had to use C-clamps and an 1 1/2" thick, 2 inch wide, 12" long piece of steel firmly clamped to the bottom of the lip to use as a dolly. Then was finally able to get it pretty straight.
Still needs media blasted, epoxy and then start the fine tuning.
Bed Right Side lower rear dents.JPG


Removed the rear bumper and found ripped metal on the left tail light:
Tail light Left side ripped metal.JPG


Also severely dented metal:
Tail light Left side dented metal.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



Fully Engaged
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:17 am
Location: Northeast N.J.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2021 9:44 pm
You have to wonder what everything that truck scraped and got caught up on looks like
JT

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 8410
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 8:38 pm
Had a rip in the metal near to rear of the bed.
Bed Left Top metal ripped.JPG


Need to persuade it back into position:
Bed Left Top metal persuader.JPG


Got it welded together:
Bed Top left rip welded.JPG


The lower portion behind the wheel was severely dent in the front and rear which caused the rip in the metal by the tail light.
Bed Left lower rear dents.JPG


After some serious hammer and dolly work I got it pretty straight. I already closed up the gaps at the flange area just forgot to take another picture.
Bed Left lower rear dents progress.JPG


Welded the rip in the metal near the tail light. Still need a dab of weld in the small inside gap.
Tail light Left side rip welded.JPG


The punctured metal at the top of the tail light was a nightmare. I got it close enough to finish with filler when I get to that stage.
Tail light Left side dented metal progress.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



Fully Engaged
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:17 am
Location: Northeast N.J.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:55 pm
An incredible amount of metal work.
Very cool

JT

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 8410
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 8:05 pm
Dismantled the drivers door today planning to replace some rusted metal.
Here's what I found rattling around inside the door:
Crowbar in Door.JPG


When removing the vent window assembly I noticed the whole top of the door was loose and would move back and forth.
Turns out the metal is rusted a ripped at the front and rear of the window area:
Metal ripped and frame loose.JPG


Metal ripped and window frame loose front.JPG


Add to that the cross brace being detached from the outer door panel:
Cracked at Cross brace.JPG


And the rusted out metal I was planning to replace:
Bottom Front Rust.JPG


Any thoughts on whether to repair or replace it? AMD door shell is $430 shipped.
I am leaning towards repairing this one, simply because I know it fits properly. Never know with reproductions these days.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



Fully Engaged
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2020 8:17 am
Location: Northeast N.J.
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 8:58 pm
My thoughts

Its not a show resto if I understand correctly so for $430 plus the delay I’d say save it.
You say it fits properly so that goes a long way to getting toward the finished product.

JT

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 8410
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 5:12 pm
Welded up the cracks today.
Rear Welded.JPG


Next picture is a bit out of focus, sorry.
Cross Brace Welded.JPG


The front gave me the most trouble as the metal was quite thin.
Front Welded.JPG


Next will be the sheet metal in that lower front corner. I will have to give it plenty of thought as my metal shaping capabilities are limited.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31
PreviousNext

Return to Completed & In Progress Member Projects

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: slednut and 7 guests