My Scout II project Blue Rhinoceros

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2021 10:38 pm
I am starting on my Scout II projects paint, I have owned it for a long time and it has been
waiting it's turn. So I got the new engine in last summer and am finishing that part up now
with a few minor details and I ordered some supplies to get started prepping for a paint job.
I blasted and put back under coat underneath and painted the frame already. I ordered some epoxy primer, 2k high build primer, 80 DA paper, 220 sheet, 400 sheet, tape, a paint gun holder, glazing spot putty and a few misc.. I already had a gallon of reducer, a can of wax and grease remover, filler and most all the tools I need. So I am ready to get started I am going to strip the paint, epoxy primer, fill any minor spots, 2k high build, sand then possibly seal, then spray base and clear, then cut and buff. Easier said than done but I'm ready to
start. I will post pictures of my progress and info on what I get accomplished. I can't believe
it's been so long since I painted my last one. My post on here show 2012 when I painted my
Mazda 3 man time flies. That was my third paint job on a full vehicle and my first base/clear.
Anyway wanted to start this to keep track of my progress and show what I was dong on it.

Dave :mrgreen:



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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2021 4:23 am
this should be a good thread to follow.
one suggestion: if your reducer is from 2012, get new reducer

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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2021 6:49 am
Thanks for the info TomSteve I appreciate it

Dave

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2021 11:56 pm
I got some more supplies picked up today in town and UPS delivered some more sand paper this afternoon. Now if it would only quit raining daily so it wasn't so damp in the shop.
The humidity is up and I would like to have some sunny dry days to strip the paint off to bare metal so I can epoxy prime. Just waiting on the weather now. Forecast says rain through
the middle of next week. We never have rain this long normally but can't complain too
much at least is isn't extra dry. Usually by May we have summer weather. I'm excited to
get started.

Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2021 8:36 am
If you are talking about a "chemical" style strip there.....you can cut off the humidity from the surface by using wax paper or saran wrap "over" your stripper after application. This forces the chemistry to only go in for penetration rather than evaporating or slowing because of mixing with higher humidity air. If you are just sanding it off, well, no suggestions there....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2021 5:40 pm
DarrelK wrote:If you are talking about a "chemical" style strip there.....you can cut off the humidity from the surface by using wax paper or saran wrap "over" your stripper after application. This forces the chemistry to only go in for penetration rather than evaporating or slowing because of mixing with higher humidity air. If you are just sanding it off, well, no suggestions there....


Originally I was going to use stripper but then I decided to sand it off, I was afraid I wouldn't
get all the stripper off and cause problems so I decided to sand it off and maybe try a razor
blade and a heat gun. I'll see how that goes then might use the stripper if the 80 grit is not
effective but I bet it will rip it right off. Just waiting on the weather to cooperate and dry out
a little. Thanks for the info on the wax paper and saran wrap I may have to try it if I end up
getting some chemical stripper.

Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2021 10:13 pm
Dave, yeah, it's just a handy thing to have in your arsenal when tackling stuff. It can cut your stripper usage by 30 to 40%.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2021 11:40 pm
DarrelK wrote:Dave, yeah, it's just a handy thing to have in your arsenal when tackling stuff. It can cut your stripper usage by 30 to 40%.

Thanks Darrel I appreciate the info I need all the pointers I can get.

Dave

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 8:21 am
I use a heat gun and razor blade, especially on thicker paint jobs.
It's actually a very quick process once you get the hang of it.
Stripping Right Fender.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:57 pm
I seen where you were talking about that before Coronet R/T and was planning to try
it out from what I read before that is one of the safest ways also to remove older paint. Do
you get it all like that or do you follow with paper and scotch brite or all razor blade? I had to remove the paint on my Mazda with a razor several years ago but it was already lifting due to someone painting it before me and they didn't sand or use wax remover so it slid right off.
I am ready to get started I am going to pressure wash it before I start and get it good and clean then the fun begins. I really am excited to get started! Thanks for the advice Coronet R/T I appreciate it.

Dave
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