Some trimming along bottom edge and cut drain hole in forward area of bottom patch. If water moisture ever gets in again it will be running right out that drain hole. Lower section will be epoxy primed and panel bonded in at the bottom then butt welded along upper and rear seam.

The large opening by the upper patch has a vent door which attaches by two screws. That was Hondas attempt to let moisture vent out of quarter panel. Obviously did not work but it will be reinstalled as original.

Nice project. I suppose the lower flange of the patch was originally spot welded at the factory? And now you're replacing the spot welds with adhesive in order to prevent rusting ? What adhesive do you use ?

Looks like decent work over all, your coming along quickly. And I get that your almost done with this one.

But a Bit of advice going forward with metal work Loose those Clamps that set up a Gap.
You want zero Gap for thin stuff like that much easier to weld with less distortion less blow through.
When you use clamps like that it sets up a Big gap, A gap allows the Bead to shrink when cooling and it shrinks a lot! causing distortion in the panels joined.
More distortion Forces you to do more hammer and Dolley work on the panel and bead, When Mig bead is over worked it cracks.

These are the clamps I am talking about don't use them.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-inter ... QoQAvD_BwE

Check out this video worth the time!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBK6STQjs9k


Your far better off using a Backing doublers/Fish plate and screws to hold the Panels together with zero gap to Tack weld skins together, then remove doublers and finish welding.

With a Zero gap you can go for a Fusion weld with no filler rod as well IF you would use a Gas welder set up or a Tig welder both produce a Nice soft weld bead that is so much easier to work than Mig weld.
Skills worth learning if you plan on doing much more of this type of work.
And I get it not everyone can afford a Tig welder and Gas welding is almost a Lost art, And it takes a while how to use each and welding this thin stuff is Hard no matter which process you chose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv5bKXJ3kEM

superninja wrote:Nice project. I suppose the lower flange of the patch was originally spot welded at the factory? And now you're replacing the spot welds with adhesive in order to prevent rusting ? What adhesive do you use ?

I use 3M Panel Bond. It is like two tubes and disperses mixed. Requires a 3M Panel Bond gun to apply. Most local auto paint suppliers stock it and my local auto parts store stocks it too.

Doright wrote:Looks like decent work over all, your coming along quickly. And I get that your almost done with this one.

But a Bit of advice going forward with metal work Loose those Clamps that set up a Gap.
You want zero Gap for thin stuff like that much easier to weld with less distortion less blow through.
When you use clamps like that it sets up a Big gap, A gap allows the Bead to shrink when cooling and it shrinks a lot! causing distortion in the panels joined.
More distortion Forces you to do more hammer and Dolley work on the panel and bead, When Mig bead is over worked it cracks.

These are the clamps I am talking about don't use them.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-inter ... QoQAvD_BwE

Check out this video worth the time!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBK6STQjs9k


Your far better off using a Backing doublers/Fish plate and screws to hold the Panels together with zero gap to Tack weld skins together, then remove doublers and finish welding.

With a Zero gap you can go for a Fusion weld with no filler rod as well IF you would use a Gas welder set up or a Tig welder both produce a Nice soft weld bead that is so much easier to work than Mig weld.
Skills worth learning if you plan on doing much more of this type of work.
And I get it not everyone can afford a Tig welder and Gas welding is almost a Lost art, And it takes a while how to use each and welding this thin stuff is Hard no matter which process you chose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv5bKXJ3kEM

Thanks for the advice. I will check all of that out. Much appreciated.

Prepped metal for epoxy primer. Will be wiped down with wax grease remover prior to primer:

Roughed up patch panels with 150 grit then wiped all surfaces down with wax and grease remover. Shot two coats of PPG epoxy primer purchased today at local auto paint supply store. Harbor Freight detail gun which comes in a two gun kit was used to shoot paint. Gun inlet pressure set to 25 PSI no reducer required for primer. Note high flow air couplers used in air hoses to provide high volume air to detail gun:

Panel Bond and Applicator Gun. Bought from local auto paint supply. They had to order in the Applicator Gun when I bought it a year ago for the last project. The bond dries to a hard plastic like substance and it is sandable too:

Got one of those in the cabinet.

I let the panels dry over night. Edges of panel where sprayed with UPOL Weld Through Primer and then I applied panel bond to both patch panel and wheel well. I let it set up a few minutes otherwise it is too runny and drips.