Lexus damaged fender and outer skin separation

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2021 11:51 pm
My good friend accidently drove her Lexus and jammed it against the garage entrance
she basically was stuck I had to jack up the car and winch it sideways away from the
garage opening! She had bought the car used and was unaware it had been in a previous
accident, which the dealer did not reveal! Insurance was out of the question as they would hike up her rates. I decided to try and repair. looking at the damage revealed bondo had been used to repair this before, up to 3/16 inch in some places, I proceeded to remove all the Bondo with my small die grinder using 80 grit. I found pin holes where they must have use a pin welder to straighten out the fender. the damage she did crushed in the radius of the fender inward am having a heck of a time trying to get the fender straight, the outer skin has separated between the inner metal, and the bottom of the dog leg is severely dented in
I'm trying to figure out the best way to bond the outer and inner skin. wish I knew the terminology, but I am a newbie!

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https://app.photobucket.com/u/Sigala_D/ ... b18a12d074

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2021 7:25 pm
That damage doesn't look serious enough to break the spot welds that hold the inner and outer quarter, but, having said that, one thing I've learned is that anything is possible.

This is a slightly complex repair and will need some special tools. If you're inexperienced then I'd really suggest that handing it to a panel shop may be the best choice.

If you're determined to do this yourself then you'll need, at the very least, a slide hammer and stud welding kit, something like this. You'll also need a means of pulling - some kind of hand winch and somewhere secure to attach it. Plus a body hammer (or two) and probably a dolly.

The outer quarter needs to be pulled out. I'd use wiggle wire along the edge and along the arc where the body line is. Specific spots may need studs, as will the damage in the dog leg. Once the outer is fairly straight then the inner may need to be straightened as well. This is going to be tricky since you're working inside the wheel well and can only access one side. I'd probably weld tabs to provide something to pull or push on, but really depends on what the damage is.

Then you have to buy filler, sandpapers, primer, basecoat, clear a spray gun and a compressor (if you don't already have these). For a one off, probably cheaper to give to a shop and cop the increase in insurance premiums.
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 10:54 pm
Thanks Chris!
I have PDR glue tabs, and all the tools, Robo lifter Keco, Slide hammers, Dollies, Body hammers, pretty much everything, Rage Ultra body filler, HVLP paint gun. I just need to
figure out the best way to re-attach the wheel arch that you mentioned spot weld would not
break but indeed they did!
Thanks Chris

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