Hammer, dolly, slapper, shrinking disc and a bit of time. It's not perfect but as you can see in the before and after pics it's a big improvement.

Im just learning this hammer/dolly stuff,nice work, what a difference.

Thanks, I'm no expert at it but I am improving. You really have to take your time, lots of light hits, check it, more hits. If you get too aggressive you'll end up creating a new problem.

I welded a small patch in the mounting flange, had a bunch of small holes in one area. Still have to do something at the front bottom of it. I'll get to replacing the big patch after the car is completely stripped. I need to have it back on the car with the door to make sure it all lines up before welding.

rjuhasz wrote:I do have some shrinking discs. Are you referring to the small dings on the top of the fender? Not much room to get a disc on the back there. The big ugly patch is flange welded so it's double metal all the way around. Don't know if a shrinking disc would work on that.

The shrinking disk will only work to get the original shape if your Patch their was hand made from flat stock it may not work very well. But the original Stamped metal it will work wonders on if you go slow. I have both Large and small shrinking disks plus a Ball I use on a Die grinder. All of it can be done with a Torch as well BUT use caution not to over heat the metal doesn't take much to get too hot You just want enough so a cold wet rag will make Steam when its wiped across the metal.

When I work a Panel like that I like too use a File or a DA with 80 grit to find Hi and Low spots work them with Hammer and dolly then Shrink again if necessary then redo Dye file or Sand again to reveal new Hi and Low spots and repeat process till panel is Strait and smooth again requiring Very little to no filler Or maybe a light coat of Poly Primmer over a coat of Epoxy.

Unfortunately they don't make a patch for this part of the fender. It's pretty ugly as you can see. I welded a piece of welding rod along the bottom to level it out and did my best to work some of the little dents out. It's far from perfect but a lot better. A little bit of filler and it should be good to go.

I was able to get a replacement front apron a little while ago. It was in pretty nice shape, I only had to do a little metal bumping. This should be the final sanding I hope.

Finished sanding the front apron, it's good to go for now. Once everything is stripped and prefitted there may be some more work needed.
I stripped the left door and it's shockingly great! Never hit by the looks of it. I'm going to have to do something with the gap between it and the rear quarter. It had a taper to the gap from top to bottom. Not sure if that's a bad factory fit or something else.

This is how the door gap looked before disassembly. I'm going to have to add onto the door or the qtr panel I guess. Can't live with it looking like this.

I welded a couple small holes in the spare tire door. I was able to use a copper backed vice grip, sure made it a lot easier to close the hole without blowing through.

Took the other rear fender off, same problem as the other side. Had to cut half a dozen bolts off. My replacement caged nuts showed up so I can replace all the failed ones. I haven't stripped the rear fenders yet but I'm optimistic that they're pretty good. I don't see any damage on the inside of them.

I had a lot of grief trying to get the right door off. The bolts were rusted in there badly, managed to get 5 out of 7 out. Had to drill two out so that will be another problem. The caged nuts are a little hard to get to. The door has a lot more rust than the other one. Won't know if I need to cut some out until I strip it. The door jambs where the hinges are needs work. It got hit somewhere around there and it's pushed in.