Wheel well arches.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2023 5:20 pm
Thought I’d start a thread to keep track of my project. 07 Duramax crew cab.
Rear wheel wells have rusted out like so many have. I have replacement panels and for the most part the plastic fender flare will cover most of the work. Thank god. Plan is to glue these on. Fear of warping and most likely will just rust again if I weld.

So a couple of questions. First the inner wheel house is almost completely gone so nothing for the new panel to hold onto. Thoughts on making something or just leave it? I could see fabricating something for the outer to grab onto.

Second on the bottom where it lines up with the body line. See pic. How do I go about this area. The fender flare will cover but my bondo will extend past. Thinking the flare won’t fit right after?

I’m sure I’ll have more questions thanks for your time.
Mike.
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8687A6C5-83B7-44F0-95F9-35814B80A201.jpeg



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2023 5:22 pm
Some other pics
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C6BC2A8E-6257-4D22-A5CA-B6718F898FA6.jpeg
779B1D18-C947-4748-ADB8-C075492D49BA.jpeg



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 11:15 am
Your only looking at the Rust you can see, The Rust will be worse the deeper you dig.

That Last Pic:
Your gonna need at least part of a Wheel well.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 12:38 pm
Yeah no doubt there’s more rust. It’s why I’m going to glue. Not looking for professional results. Don’t want to be a hack either.
So for an inner well was thinking maybe a piece 1” wide wrap/loop from ea bottom edge. Hopefully some good metal to weld too at the bottom of each side. I made a cardboard piece so you can see what I’m thinking. At least this will give the patch panel a place to hold onto. Maybe some pieces going vertical like the tape to attach it to the original wheel house??
Thanks.
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D896F08E-04C0-4345-A637-F7CA065D700E.jpeg



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 3:49 pm
As far gone as that is I would be looking for whole bed sides or a whole new Bed period.
Not worth the effort to try and save it in my opinion.
Your gonna have more into it in time and materials than its worth to try and save If you have to buy everything to do it.
No matter if you glue or weld metal has to be clean on both sides.

Just me but I would need new bed sides and new outer wheel wells to fix this, plus 1/2-1 gallon of Base coat, 1 gal of filler, 8 hrs of welding plus set up, 1/2 gal epoxy primer, 1/2 gal Hi build primer, plus 1/2-1 gallon of clear plus new plastic pieces if they cant be saved.
and about 12-15 hrs of labor. not to mention all the thinners, reducers and activators Sand paper, Tape & Masking.
I bet I am way under what others would say, some may say less but I bet I'm not far off.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 4:09 pm
Unfortunately here in Canada this is normal rust. Not unusual for rust repairs to show rust bubbles 6 months after. This is why I’m gluing and not going overboard,extend its life a little while longer. Truck has 200k miles on it so some life left yet.

So onto some cutting. Rounded the patch panel corners traced a line left a 1” bond line incase the fish thing doesn’t work out. A few pics. Tried to get from behind but kinda tuff.

Still gonna be hard to grind behind to glue in plates.
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743F8F35-B417-4342-999C-4E16B066575E.jpeg
063F8F1D-233D-424D-9EEC-A267A858B529.jpeg



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 4:14 pm
One from behind
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 10:23 am
Work showing thru 6 moths after repairs are completed is evidence of some one who did not go far enough to remove all the rust.

I lived in Anchorage Alaska I know Rust caused by Road Salt.
Rust repair is one of my things.

By the looks of the panel you cut off You haven't cut out enough yet.
The pic from the Back side also shows Not enough cut out yet.
As a Restorer I always push for total removal of all rust The rust in your bed is extensive, I strongly suggest getting it all opened up and then Blasting every were you can clean then applying Epoxy to slow down the Corrosion.

By the looks of the wheel well condition I would say Salts have gotten in deeper on the Panel as well Possibly back into Tail light area around tail lights another rust prone area.
This is why I say replace whole bed side.

I lay the repair panel over the area to be repaired and cut both panels at same time so I get a Tight fitting repair panel then bevel cuts slightly,
When making cuts I do it with strait lines and square corners makes it easier to make the backing plates.
Backing plates (Fish plates) need an inch to 1 1/2 inch overlap on both sides of panel to glue to so fish plate itself is 2 to 3 inches wide total on back side depending if you want 1 inch to glue to or 1 half inch to glue to, Wider Will make it stronger repair.
Fish plates are cut and shaped to fit panel being repaired and glued into place with screws or clecos and allowed to cure over night then remove excess Glue and install repair panel again let it set up over night then remove all excess.

Is that wheel well a Split type made from two pieces ? Or is it a whole one piece?
Most are two piece allowing you to just replace the outer portion.
These should still be available. Here again I over lay new over the old and Cut both at same time to make perfect fitting repair panels.

Being able to cut out wheel well or a portion of it will give you room to work the main repair panel on the inside. I can not stress how important it is to have a perfect stress free set up once you have cut and made all the pieces to make this repair. Every thing needs to be held together with sheet metal screws or Clecos stress free and look almost perfect.

After you have the Bed side repair all figured out and made up then you can take it all apart and work the wheel well again over lay new wheel well over old wheel well cut both once Make fish plates screw all together test fit all pieces as one whole repair wheel well and bed side. If all looks good disassemble, starting with wheel well glue it up wait till adhesive cures then remove screws or Clecos move on to outer panel doing same. Holes from Clecos need to be slightly beveled as well as cut lines, clean and remove all excess adhesive from cut lines and screw holes with wire wheel apply epoxy and then fill areas with Fiberglass filler work work body and paint as normal.

Beware Matching Silver SUCKS!

I apologize I had a Thread and Pics showing all I am trying to describe as I have done this type of repair a few times and had it documented in pics But I cannot find them!
I searched the forum No joy and I also searched my Photobucket account again no joy.
I will have to do this repair again and Make a new thread for it and document it in my Photobucket account again.
I just don't do it anymore because I have all the welding equipment to do it right with Gas welding or Tig welding.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 5:13 pm
Doright wrote:Work showing thru 6 moths after repairs are completed is evidence of some one who did not go far enough to remove all the rust.

I lived in Anchorage Alaska I know Rust caused by Road Salt.
Rust repair is one of my things.

By the looks of the panel you cut off You haven't cut out enough yet.
The pic from the Back side also shows Not enough cut out yet.
As a Restorer I always push for total removal of all rust The rust in your bed is extensive, I strongly suggest getting it all opened up and then Blasting every were you can clean then applying Epoxy to slow down the Corrosion.

By the looks of the wheel well condition I would say Salts have gotten in deeper on the Panel as well Possibly back into Tail light area around tail lights another rust prone area.
This is why I say replace whole bed side.

I lay the repair panel over the area to be repaired and cut both panels at same time so I get a Tight fitting repair panel then bevel cuts slightly,
When making cuts I do it with strait lines and square corners makes it easier to make the backing plates.
Backing plates (Fish plates) need an inch to 1 1/2 inch overlap on both sides of panel to glue to so fish plate itself is 2 to 3 inches wide total on back side depending if you want 1 inch to glue to or 1 half inch to glue to, Wider Will make it stronger repair.
Fish plates are cut and shaped to fit panel being repaired and glued into place with screws or clecos and allowed to cure over night then remove excess Glue and install repair panel again let it set up over night then remove all excess.

Is that wheel well a Split type made from two pieces ? Or is it a whole one piece?
Most are two piece allowing you to just replace the outer portion.
These should still be available. Here again I over lay new over the old and Cut both at same time to make perfect fitting repair panels.

Being able to cut out wheel well or a portion of it will give you room to work the main repair panel on the inside. I can not stress how important it is to have a perfect stress free set up once you have cut and made all the pieces to make this repair. Every thing needs to be held together with sheet metal screws or Clecos stress free and look almost perfect.

After you have the Bed side repair all figured out and made up then you can take it all apart and work the wheel well again over lay new wheel well over old wheel well cut both once Make fish plates screw all together test fit all pieces as one whole repair wheel well and bed side. If all looks good disassemble, starting with wheel well glue it up wait till adhesive cures then remove screws or Clecos move on to outer panel doing same. Holes from Clecos need to be slightly beveled as well as cut lines, clean and remove all excess adhesive from cut lines and screw holes with wire wheel apply epoxy and then fill areas with Fiberglass filler work work body and paint as normal.

Beware Matching Silver SUCKS!

I apologize I had a Thread and Pics showing all I am trying to describe as I have done this type of repair a few times and had it documented in pics But I cannot find them!
I searched the forum No joy and I also searched my Photobucket account again no joy.
I will have to do this repair again and Make a new thread for it and document it in my Photobucket account again.
I just don't do it anymore because I have all the welding equipment to do it right with Gas welding or Tig welding.

Thanks,some good info.2 piece yes,I see the outer portion are available.Ive also see some plastic inner fender liners that look like a much easier option and cheaper too.
Ill do more looking during the week,project is on hold for a few days.My DD needs the warm spot as its -17c here today with lows in around -25c



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Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2023 10:01 pm

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 5:35 pm
Another question,will a 36 grit flap disk be ok for preparing th glue joint? I have a DA polisher but can only find 40 grit with velcro backing.
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