Yup I do too many want them gone !
My cars are gonna b more like tributes than clones I guess The TA I have some guy says its a Genny another says its another Esprit I myself could care less I have never been a Matching numbers guy. I have a set of Eagle Round ports for the 455 going in the 71 Set of forged pistons good rods waiting on cam selection. Both have stock 455 cranks have Forged pistons for each. I have a couple sets of 6X heads.
The BIG project thread
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Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
I have a question, I'm wiring the neutral safety switch and not sure about the connections. The switch has 4 wires, 2 for the NSS and 2 for the backup lights. There's 2 connectors for the 4 wires. My harness doesn't have connectors just 4 bare wires, other than knowing where the wires go in two's I'm not sure if it matters which of the 2 wires goes to the connectors male/female terminal. I want to think it's a loop so you can't get it wrong?
Rob
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
its basically two different switches so ya it matters which wires go where.
The NSS will require two specific wires and the Back up will require two. Youll have to get a Plug with leads and splice them to it. If the wire colors are correct your in business if not your gonna need a schematic Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
Yes I know it's 2 different switches, I know which two go to each switch. It's how the wires go to each of the switches. I know you can bypass the NSS by bridging it so I assumed you can't wire it wrong. No idea about the backup light. I'll look at the wiring description and let you know, the NSS wiring doesn't color match or offer any info
Rob
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Im not sure about the mustang wiring.
On a few of my cars I never even hooked it up. Yes it would try to start in gear. I finally Hard plumbed a 1/2 inch air line over to my Cabinet blaster WOW!! what a Difference it made! if I would have known how much of a difference it would make I would have done it long ago. I added another hose real and added two another hose bib as well now I have hose connections on all 4 corners of the shop. I also started a cheap Batch of Copper acetate Brewing and Nickle acetate for plating It will take it a Few days to really get going good but after its done in a few days I will be able to Nickle plate steel parts. I think it will be stronger than the Cadmium I have been doing. I was gonna order some special stuff but its expensive, I saw a Video about Acetates made from Vinegar and salt and decided to try it see how it works. Its a heck of a lot cheaper that for sure. Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
The VSS is on the trans, 2 same colored wires go to a double connecter, same for the backup lights. The harness has a VSS wire and a starter solenoid wire, not sure if it matters as to which wire plugs into the male or female terminal on the connector.
Same for the backup lights, 2 wires, ignition and backup light. I'm going to assume that either way works, if not I guess I'll have to cut off the terminals and flip them but I won't know until the car is done. How did you connect the 1/2" line? I have 3/4" copper but it gets choked down at the oil/water filter so I lose my air volume. Edit: just talked to the tech guys and there is no wrong way to wire either switch, yay. Rob
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I was about to say it probably doesn't matter which side of switch wires go.
All my plumbing is 1 inch pipe The smallest connector in all my set up is half inch except at quick connects where it necks down for 3/8 air hoses. I plumbed 1/2 strait to the Blaster works awesome! Now my biggest problem is mixed Glass old and new so I have a dust problem. I have cleaned my Dust collector filter three times today its getting better but for the hassle I would drain it and put in fresh Glass bead if I had it. I am so close to being done with all the blasting I can see light Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
That's what I figured on the wiring too but it's nice to see it in writing, they should say that in the instructions.
Does your air line pass through any filter along the way? I still haven't wrapped my head around the best way to do this. The cabinet works well but I just know it could work even better Rob
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm Location: Pahrump NV. Country: USA |
Yes I have a filter after my expansion tanks/water catcher before going to plumbing through the shop. I tapped off air with a T fitting right after the filter to go to the Cabinet blaster with 1/2".
The filter Is just a cheap water catch with a Particulate filter in it and a drain, I modified it by drilling and Tapping to accept 9/16" or 5/8 pipe fittings I don't remember which i would have to go look at it. Basically I removed and discarded the air pressure regulator and pressure gauge and drilled out and Tapped the input and out put for bigger pipe to ensure it wasn't a Big restriction to the whole system. The only place I use a Regulator in my system is in my Paint booth and the Blasters the rest of my system sees what ever air pressure is in the Compressors Air tank. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dvr- ... 9gQAvD_BwE Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
That's an interesting idea, opening up the airflow through the filter. I can't really hard plumb my cabinet due to it's location but I could go with a bigger ID air hose if the filter wasn't already restricting the air flow. Something to think about.
I have a bit of blasting to do and I got some glass bead recently so we'll see how that goes. Waiting on some parts so I can finish all the dash wiring and assembly. Rob
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