The BIG project thread

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2021 6:03 pm
The front of door had to come up about an 1/8" to line up with fender. I got a friend to come over to help, too hard to do alone. You need to barely tweek it but you lose everything as soon as you loosen the hinges.
The fender was a bit of a pain but we got that good too.
Need to finish some under hood stuff and then get the hood on, hopefully that won't create any significant fender issues.
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Rob



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 27, 2021 7:01 pm
I would get both fenders on and the front end grill assembly all going and all tied together then start tweaking everything.
One of those things that one thing does this to correct that but screws the Pooch over their type of thing, Its a Battle. Right now just the weight of the one fender on the Rad saddle could be making it droop causing other side to go hi till you get the other fender on.
Once you do and things level out now front of left fender could be to hi! I hope not but I bet you get what I am saying.

With Old cars sometimes just have to find a Happy middle ground.
That's exactly why I don't get excited about Door and panel Gaps on these old cars They were NEVER perfect from the factory.

Looks good though buddy :goodjob:
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2021 11:38 am
The other side was already done, went together way too easily. Total opposite of the left side. I know I'm nowhere near out of the woods with fitting everything but now I need to do a bunch of under hood stuff before putting the hood on.
I'm not impressed with the amount of adjustment you can do with the door. It's quite a bit but most of it isn't useful. And like you said you may have to settle for a middle ground, they never fit all that great when it rolled off the assembly line.
Rob



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2021 1:19 pm
I didn't know you had other side on already.
Sure looks sharp all back together bet your getting excited and can see light at end of tunnel now that your so close.

Cant wait to see some nice pics of it all done out side in the Sun.
Are you getting excited to take it to car shows this year????

I bet your Wife is getting excited
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2021 1:52 pm
Well it is starting to look like a car again so that is exciting. Still a ton of little things to do. My wife knows there's still a lot left but she was happy to see the doors and fenders on. It actually looks like it will get finished.
I'm sure we'll put it in a show or two should we have any. Really hasn't been much of that since covid, some poker runs and a couple small shows.

The other side literally bolted up perfectly with barely any adjustment needed. I should be so lucky more often.
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Rob



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2021 2:01 pm
Car is looking really good!
I like the Tire stands you made very cool.

I understand you have a lot left under the hood but have you started it yet?
Been a while since it last ran
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2021 4:11 pm
No I haven't started it, I have turned it over. I still have to do some wiring just to start it. That and I haven't installed the new exhaust yet.
I just got the front bumper brackets out of the box and see I have to weld a quarter size hole before I paint them.
I can't say this was a very organized let alone efficient build. I hope to be a lot better with that on the TR.
Rob



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2021 7:06 pm
Getting organized and Staying organized is always a challenge in my shop.

Next is finding motivation LOL! :knockout:
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2021 7:33 pm
No kidding, especially getting motivated when things aren't going as planned :knockout:

I'm trying to figure out a good place to put the firewall to motor ground wire. Usually goes to the back of the head but I now have aluminum heads and intake so that's out. I was thinking maybe between the washer and the bolt head on the trans. The bolt goes into the block so maybe that's enough to negate the aluminum trans case? Any suggestions?
Rob



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2021 8:30 pm
Aluminum is fine, No problems for a ground. I have them in my heads and block to body in my Vett and its engine is totally all Aluminum.

Speaking of Vett I just pulled engine back out for major oil leak that started out of no where.
Looks like Harmonic balancer backed out! The Bolt was loose! But yet was Tight on the Crank! I took the bolt out with my fingers!

I didn't spring for a New Stretch bolt! when building it a whole $8-$12 Live learn!
I Have no idea how it backed out but it did! I ran it in with an inpack gun.

The Balancer was Backed out I could see it. BUT Yet I broke the balancer while Pulling it off the crank with a Three finger puller! ??????
How could it back out enough to leak wildly BUT yet needed a Puller to get it off the crank!

I am at a loss!

All I can think of was the Crank I bought was wrong for my Harmonic balancer, or my Balancer wrong for that crank.....
I don't know, I am gonna Buy new parts and slap it back together.
I need the Car running reliably Not in pieces. Just glad I don't have to rebuild it again.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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