The BIG project thread

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Location: Pahrump NV.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2022 11:00 am
Well I finally got the new engine mounts put the engine back on the Sub frame and began the fight to get it back in the car about 2pm 3 hrs later I had it back and comfy in its home.
Man that thing can fight you!

By the Book your supposed to drop the rear end, trans-axle and drive shaft assembly with the engine on the sub frame out of the car at same time.
Separate them do what ever your gonna do then mate them back together then drop the body back down over all of it and bolt it all back to the body.

I chose to cheat and just drop the engine out at an angle. leaving the rear end Trans axle and drive shaft in the car, so it has to go back in at an angle not an easy task! as you have to get the engine sitting at just the right angle just right with the drive shaft to go into the fly wheel. The drive shaft between the engine and the Trans axle does not have traditional U joints it has these heavy duty Rubber Joints that really don't flex very much, They like to stay strait.
You'd think it would be easy to get it to slide in to the flywheel but its not!

Getting the engine to sit on my table Lift at the right angle with the Car on its own lift Dropping the body down over the engine and raising the engine on the table lift At the right angle is a trick!

But I got it in and called it a day Have to go back out their today and finish it up shouldnt take too long. Putting the front suspension all back together is the hardest thing at this point and evacuating and refilling the AC system. The rest is pretty much plug and play besides fighting the right Header and the starter. I got my work cut out for me today.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 12:15 pm
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2022 6:40 pm
That sounds like a lot of work and hassle. No wonder I like old cars so much, way less headache doing anything.

I think I got the qtr upholstered pretty well, just a pain to get it all lined up right. I think I have a system now so other side should go more smoothly.
Rob

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2022 8:00 pm
I'm back to wiring. The after market wiring harness has some kind of fuse block to install between the solenoid and alternator. It's only about 3"X3" but there really isn't any room in the engine bay where you need it. I had to put it between the firewall and the shock tower so not the convenient side near the solenoid. I ran the 6 gauge wires outside the inner fender along the subframe.
Between the massive shock towers and the exhaust manifolds there is zero room to rout anything in a clean way.
Rob



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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2022 2:06 pm
I have only done one custom after market wire harness all the rest I have done have been Exact copies of originals much easier to deal with.

The Custom one I did allowed a Lot of custom work to be done adding all sorts of stuff Including hidden AC system.
I had lots of extra wire to route wires were needed to hide all the wire.

New systems that are going around now Every thing is Wireless controlled!
All the computers are wireless Fuel injection whole 9 yards very cool stuff.
Basically you just supply Power and grounds every thing else is wireless controlled.
Ignition, fuel injection, throttle, sensors list goes on very cool stuff.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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Posts: 4733
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 12:15 pm
Location: Canada
PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2022 12:45 pm
It's aftermarket but other than the extra under hood fuse block it seems pretty stock. Has a few extra wires if you want to add misc stuff. There is just so little space especially flat space to mount anything. If I could do it all again I would cut out the shock towers and go with a r&p setup.
I've never heard of a wireless setup, that's the stuff dreams are made of. I will definitely check that out when I build the 51.
Rob

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 6:52 pm
Every little thing is a fight. I got new door handles, cheaper than rechroming. They look good and identical. I got them on and all rods connected, the lock knob rod is brutal to connect, totally blind. Anyway for some reason the door handle to latch rod is inexplicably too long by about 3/8". You can push the rod up to connect it but then it pushes the handle flapper up so the knob can't reach it making the handle useless.
I found a link online with somebody having the same issue but it's old and naturally they didn't follow through with the thread.
It's a straight up point A to point B connection so I can't imagine how it could be installed incorrectly.
Against my better judgement I'm going to cut the rod down but it shouldn't come to that.
Rob

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:58 pm
So I removed door handle and rod, cut 1/2" out of the rod, welded it back together and it now works perfectly.
Makes no sense whatsoever :knockout:
Rob



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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:17 pm
Location: Pahrump NV.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 11:31 am
I am dreading the day I have to start putting all the door latch mech back together in the bird and the Plymouth. as I recalled I needed some plastic clips.... I should order all those now.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 12:15 pm
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 3:38 pm
I'm waiting on one of those clips for the other side. There's 4 rods and one of them has a totally different insert and clip than the other 3.
Biggest problem hooking them up is seeing what you're doing, especially with one rod, that and lack of room for your hands.
I hope to have most of the interior in soon. I'll leave the driver seat out until I get the new shifter leaver. It's been on back order for 6 months or so
Rob

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Posts: 4733
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 12:15 pm
Location: Canada
PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2022 7:40 pm
Well I got the missing clip and put the other door handle on, same deal, rod 1/2' too long. Cut it, welded it, works perfect.
Got most of the interior in, still waiting on shifter leaver, supposed to arrive soon, it's been half a year or more.
Got the trunk hinge torsion bars in without killing myself, had to make a tool, tried it with a big screwdriver but it slipped off :splat:
Also ordered the vert top, about 3-4 month wait so hopefully I'll be ready by then.
Need to get the windshield in soon, ordered new trim so once that's in.
Rob
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