Clear coat on F-150 ABS plastic pieces

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 5:46 pm
I am color matching pieces on an F-150 Platinum. Base coat went on great, using Valspar 100 but clear coat seems to be cloudy, not as clear. I have polished but didn’t cut as I wanted to see whether I should just re spray it. Will cutting and buffing help this or too gone to try and clear up. Shooting PPG Deltron 3000 in heated garage. Picture is of the rear emblem panel. If I compare to the truck reflection it is much foggier. Thanks for any help. Also curious whether I didn’t put enough down? I was trying to be somewhat light because on the other pieces with some vertical surfaces, I had some serious sag. Reshooting those in a couple of days so curious on any tactics to prevent a poor spray. Thanks for any help!
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 6:42 pm
crsavage1 wrote:I am color matching pieces on an F-150 Platinum. Base coat went on great, using Valspar 100 but clear coat seems to be cloudy, not as clear. I have polished but didn’t cut as I wanted to see whether I should just re spray it. Will cutting and buffing help this or too gone to try and clear up. Shooting PPG Deltron 3000 in heated garage. Picture is of the rear emblem panel. If I compare to the truck reflection it is much foggier. Thanks for any help. Also curious whether I didn’t put enough down? I was trying to be somewhat light because on the other pieces with some vertical surfaces, I had some serious sag. Reshooting those in a couple of days so curious on any tactics to prevent a poor spray. Thanks for any help!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 7:35 pm
Thanks. Is this not enough clear or too much clear? I have struggled to make sure I am atomizing the clear correctly. I have used both a Fuji Spray Q5 Platinum and a regular 5 hp compressor. I prefer the Q5 but have struggled to get the gun correct for clear. I am running at a full fan wide open and thinking I might need to restrict fluid flow a bit to get it finer. It is an orange peel appearance but not real bad. Just this cloudy type finish.
Always hard to tell if I am going too fast but I have a feeling I am not spraying enough. On a few of the other pieces they have 3 sides so I worry the clear will run or sag on the sides of those pieces. Thoughts?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2021 11:08 pm
Since we are talking turbines here....maybe a few things.... First, the 3000 doesn't play nice with turbine sprayers if you ask me. Second, are you using the slowest hardener with it? When guys start talking orange peel and they are using more than a 4 stage unit I automatically question if the slowest of hardeners/reducers are being used. The more stages the more heat generated= solvents being prematurly driven out of the coating as it drys/ off gasses yielding orange peel.....just some thoughts.....
With a 5 stage your fluid feed should be at minimum 3/4's out. When I'm shooting Tamco High Solids Euro my fluid can be wide open with my 6 stage unit..... Oh, and pushing clears to the point of running/sagging is indeed where you are heading when developing gun technique. Get some practice on some vertical panels if you don't think you've got that figured out yet....
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 8:36 am
Thank you. It never occurred to me about the activator for the clear and the heat of the turbine air. I am spraying with a 1.0 and had my fluid all the way open. It seemed too much, larger droplets which instinctively made me speed up. Out of curiosity, why do you mention the 3000 not liking a turbine, because of it’s speed? I am painting in a sealed off part of my heated garage and was looking for clear that could be dust free as fast as the 3000. Any recommendations for another clear I should look into? I noted the one you mentioned in your reply although I am cautious with trying to run too high of solids through my system.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2021 11:42 am
The absolute worst thing you can have paired with a turbine systems is "fast" coatings, and yes, like the 3000. The turbine air is "at least" dry warm air, and if running for a bit....it's dry hot air. I'm not going to get too much into the physics of air compressor tech. but the way compressed air works is.... the gun is releasing a refrigerated gas which comes in contact with warm atomsphere and starts expanding as it expands it breaks up the fluid into droplets which hit and flow together on the surface. So, when you buy a typical or worse "fast" clear coat it is designed to work with that system. Turbines producing that warm air contain NO gas and depend on the high CFM (at low pressures though) to carry that fluid to the surface. And what is that heat doing???? It's already starting to drive off gasses which are needed for good flow out. By going to a higher solids slow flowing coating system you can still use combos of slow to medium hardeners/reducers for adjustment.
If you wanted to try a good clear for turbine system consider shopping for the Tamco at the store front.... I'd start with this one....
https://www.autobody101.com/store/paint ... r-hc-2100/
I could easily shoot that stuff out of a 4, 5, or 6 stage system. Once you are comfortable with that I'd move up to their Euro Clear.......
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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