HELP - What went wrong?

Anything goes in the world of fiberglass and plastic

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:53 pm
Yeah, it's just tough with spray cans like this and dash surfaces. Dashes in their own way get more abuse since they have that lovely magnifying glass of a windshield setting right above them. What really kills these dashes is the constant cycling of heat/cold/sunlight which expands and contracts the dash material eventually killing the ability of the plastic to "flex." Almost all dash units have their color cast in them for a good reason..... paints don't hang around for the long haul.....
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 11:26 am
DarrelK wrote:Yeah, it's just tough with spray cans like this and dash surfaces. Dashes in their own way get more abuse since they have that lovely magnifying glass of a windshield setting right above them. What really kills these dashes is the constant cycling of heat/cold/sunlight which expands and contracts the dash material eventually killing the ability of the plastic to "flex." Almost all dash units have their color cast in them for a good reason..... paints don't hang around for the long haul.....



iirc, its the dash and other plastic parts off gassing that is 'that new car smell",too.
but the dash gets hammered hard. i cant recall exactly how i read it, but something about all that direct sunlight also dries out the dash?
i think every car ive owned i can hear that expansion and contraction.
in the winter when i jump in and turn on the heat and summer when i turn on the AC. doesnt take long and i'll hear a "pop" sound.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 8:54 am
Well, I'm taking y'alls word then. I'm not trying to half a** this project, so I went out and borrowed a plastic welder from my bud. I'm going to finish repairing it, sand, and then put it back on the dash for a week or so for a "stress test" to see how it holds up. If it holds well, should be ready for paint. Again, want to do it the right way so I'll obviously be using a spray gun. But I hardly know anything about paint. I understand basics like 2k vs single stage, reducer, etc. But actual brands and prices, etc is another story. Could you guys list me some products to look into start to finish? I also want you to keep in mind that I plan on painting a metal bumper, and hope to be able to recycle any color/clear leftovers into that. (I'm assuming I can't use the same primer on metal versus plastic, but feel free to correct me.)

I'm also using a Kobalt 8in Spray gun. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-in-Air-Paint-Sprayer/50129826?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-AirToolsAndAccessories-_-50129826:Kobalt&CAWELAID=&kpid=50129826&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=531&k_clickID=09b15083-dd3a-48c8-b2c0-4b22cbc34232&gclid=CjwKCAjwrO_MBRBxEiwAYJnDLEstpQNU2mZTVpxhBCNeg3pfNLkKY4NzCDeALUeSxzjvmBZPNWfpBhoC5sUQAvD_BwE

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:27 am
Start at the beginning.....what's your air compressor situation like.....size, cfm, etc? Next, what paint jobber/suppliers do you have in your area? It's going to be a lot easier to just go to a counter and get what you need for your projects.... On something like a flexy dash like this I'd try to keep products minimal. Seal it up with epoxy primer and see if it looks decent enough to go base/clear or single stage.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 11:07 am
DarrelK wrote:Start at the beginning.....what's your air compressor situation like.....size, cfm, etc? Next, what paint jobber/suppliers do you have in your area? It's going to be a lot easier to just go to a counter and get what you need for your projects.... On something like a flexy dash like this I'd try to keep products minimal. Seal it up with epoxy primer and see if it looks decent enough to go base/clear or single stage.


Looking at 60 gallons/ 11.5 scfm @ 90 psi or 13.4 scfm @40 psi.
What do you mean by jobbers? Like body shops? For that I have abra, gerber, maaco, classic collision, some local ones. For suppliers I'm not really sure. I looked around one day and could only find ACS of Georgia which is a smaller brand of ppg I believe. The sherwin-williams near me didn't carry automotive paint, but If I headed closer to Atlanta I'm sure my options would broaden. What places should I be looking for?
IMG_1131.JPG
compressor

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 4:29 pm
Okay, for what you are doing compressor is okay. And, no, paint jobbers are not body shops....they are professional body shop and paint SUPPLIERS. They will usually be brand specific such as a PPG line shop carrying their premium Deltron stuff all the way down to their budget Omni and Shopline series. A Dupont jobber will carry their top of the line coatings again all the way down to their Nason line. Some NAPA stores are kind of like jobbers carry possibly Sherwin Willams or other lines of paint. Even some of the O'Reilly's are carrying Dupont in my area. A good jobber is going to also carry everything for autobody/paint work such as fillers, guns, tools, sandpapers, etc. A good jobber may have former painters working the counter which know their stuff and can help you based on your description of your project. A crappy jobber has guys that couldn't make it at the local burger joint just filling orders and won't have a clue as to what you need. And yes, Atlanta be a nice big metro area should have at least a half dozen decent suppliers there. A good jobber is worth their weight in gold...you might even want to hold off on a gun and see if they've got something better for not much more pricing......
Hey went back and checked on ACS.....here is their locations.....
http://www.acsofga.com/locations.html
They are a premium Platinum level PPG dealer and carry a lot of other popular brand of the stuff you want including Evercoat fillers. Well worth stopping at one of their stores....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 3:04 pm
As for the gun, it's something I already have laying around the house from my father's old business. Now for the paint, I understand what you're saying about the jobbers, and I'll look into it. But before I just walk into a paint store, I want to understand what I need. Can you help me get some specifics? As far as I understand, I'll need an epoxy primer, color, and clear. (And the reducers, of course.) But I'd hate to just walk into the store and be at the mercy of whoever is at the counter. Should I ask for the top of the line stuff for this job? What's the difference between Omni and Deltron? I of course want this to be a quality job, but I don't want to be spending unnecessary money either.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 3:50 pm
Okay, I would use an epoxy to seal up that dash. You could (I would try to avoid it unless you can sand most of it off) also do a 2k build primer IF you think you need to "level" up the surface. I don't like the idea of using that on a dash as it just adds another layer of inflexibility to the surface. Going from epoxy to base/clear (b/c) or single stage urethane (SSU) will be the next choice. SSU looks a little more like a dash look to me. As far as paint line qualities go you'll have a heart attack at the pricing for Deltron so I'd go Shopline on something this simple. You'd want Deltron if you were doing an overall shoot on a quality car. Deltron allows for better color matches down the road if there is damage which must be color matched and blended in...... Nothing wrong with Shopline for what you are doing. Coating system designed for the novice shooter.....
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:45 pm
Okay, so I made a trip to ACS today. They told me they didn't carry shopline, so I had them quote me omni. They had me at a qt of epoxy primer that mixed 2-1 for $37, and a pint of hardener for $14. SSU in my color matched red was $75 for a pint. The hardener for that was $25.

Does all of this sound right or should I shop elsewhere? It totaled up to $160, which isn't too bad. Also, you recommended shopline, is this a big difference versus omni? Or is the omni fine?

IMG_1278.JPG
ACS Quote for dash


Edit: The address listed on the quote is the address of the store, NOT my personal address.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 7:19 pm
seems pretty decent to me
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