Fiberglass hood filler skim coat?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 8:53 am
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Helping a friend out with his hood. Hood has been on vehicle here in Florida for about 5 years clear coat started blistering and peeling a couple years ago. Used 180 DA to break through clear and left basecoat to use as a guide coat. Blocked with 180 so far and there are a few major lows and highs that the epoxy DP50LF and some High build primer probably will not fill in. There is some flex in the hood on top of the cowls. What do you all think would be the safest filler to use in those areas for flex and heat. Bodyfiller, Evercoat poly flex, west system mixed with either Fairing filler or Cabosail? I have all these products in the garage.
I am thinking to do it like a boat repair with the west system but worried about gassing off after B/C has been applied.
Thank you all for the help
Mike

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 9:39 am
Hi, Mike, welcome.....yeah, that's a darn good question there.... heat is definitely going to be a factor here. There is not only the underhood temp.s but the radiated heat on the outside there in Florida and more importantly the temperature differential between the two. Even here in Ohio I can shoot 160 degree off the outside of a hood on an 80 degree day. We use probably a hundred pounds or so of the West products with woods, metals, fiberglass. If that fill work was under 1/8th inch and not doing the heat cycling thing I'd do it but I think it will indeed continue to gas and worse probably start cracking. If I were doing this on my own car I would be using USC's Proflex which, just an opinion, is even more flexible than the Evercoat Poly Flex especially when it comes to temperature "cycling." Since you've already got the Poly Flex I think you would be fine though.
Love West System but I think your reasoning is pretty sound on this.......
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 1:45 pm
Thanks Darrel, I'll see if he wants to get some proflex if not I'll use the poly flex just a pain to sand that stuff and I find for me it doesn't feather well sometimes. I'll shoot the epoxy and block again and see where its at if not too bad hit it with some high build and call it a day. Its for his work truck so he says cant be any worse then it was.
Thanks for the help
Mike

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 3:12 pm
Yeah, you hit the nail on the head concerning that sanding/ feathering thing..... the USC stuff feathers great and can easily be knocked down with finer grits with no loading/gumming.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

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